A beautiful Italian farm and a fantastic homemade meal: what more could you ask? The Villa Gaidello, just outside Modena, Italy is our favorite sort of inn: comfortable, full of character, family-owned, moderately priced, completely unpretentious, and serving delicious, lovingly-prepared food.
Lets start with that food. We knew we were in for a treat when we saw the ladies making the meat tortolini through the kitchen window. There is just one set family-style meal served in the farm’s large dining room. We sat down at a table with our places stacked high with plates on pretty hand embroidered linen. The owner, Signora Paolo Bini, came to the table to chat in Italian. First a bottle of sparkling Trebianno wine made on the estate was poured. Antipasti appeared: parma ham, salami, mortadella, pickled onions, marinated artichoke hearts, and these amazing little deep fried puffs! Then we had those handmade pork tortolini in broth. Then a plate of larger tortoloni, ricotta stuffed, with butter and sage leaf. Then a roasted chicken (delicious!!) with roasted potatoes and a little green salad. There was a bottle of red wine…a local San Genovese. Then some deep fried sweet cheese thing—I’m not sure what exactly—with some deep fried zucchini strips. Then a dessert of a sort of chocolate and vanilla puddings on a biscuit, with some candied fruit and whipped cream. And some sort of unlabeled fortified wine with it, and a coffee, and a meringue and a cookie! A fabulous dinner with no effort on our part at all. No one speaks any English here, but they are never-the-less very friendly and chatty! The atmosphere is totally unpretentious, with makes it especially fun; the food is served by a girl in an apron–no tuxedoed waiters here—but it is so fantastic.
The rooms—suites really—in various farm buildings are charming and quirky. We had two bedrooms, two sitting rooms, a kitchen, bath and hall–all for just the two of us. The suite was furnished with funny old things, some very pretty, some rather shabby, but all quite comfortable—rather like staying in a private home. I would recommend a room here on the main farm, rather than in the newer annex down the road. The grounds are beautiful, with trees and gardens lots of lovely details and even a lake full of swans!
I will confess, we discovered this inn through a mention in Travel+Leisure Magazine—but it is very un-Travel+Leisure, and if your favorite hotel is the Ritz-Carlton, it may not be to your taste; but for the rest of us, it is a real find. Dinner for two, and our huge suite that could have easily slept four, plus a tasty breakfast totaled a reasonable €200. Convenient to Modena and Bologna, it is also well worth a special trip.
Mornings the inn is managed by Signora Bini’s American-raised niece, a good time to call if you need to speak English, but fax or e-mail reservations are probably easiest.—Clay Doyle
Written 2002, revisited October, 2006
Villa Gaidello 18 Via Gaidello, Modena 39-059/926-806, fax 39-059/926-620
Sometimes you find a great restaurant in the most unlikely place. Such is the Osteria di Meati it a tiny hamlet just outside of Lucca. The village of Meati is so small as to be almost non-existent; It’s on a tiny, obscure road that you would likely be driving only because you had gotten lost; and the restaurant itself is totally unassuming, looking rather like a neighborhood bar. Only the large number of cars parked outside hint at the treats waiting within.
Inside is a rather ordinary bar with a few tables; a reservation will get you a table in simple, but pleasant, dining room in the rear—crowded with happy, well dressed, hungry locals. And why not? The food is fantastic, and unbelievably cheap! About half the short menu consists of daily or weekly specials, all composed of fresh seasonal ingredients and house-made pastas.
It’s difficult to make a plate of tuscan beans with slices of lard sound as good as it is, but this is a must have antipasto. The Tuscan crostini with chicken livers is among the best versions I’ve had of this Tuscan classic. Grilled vegetables are also very nicely done. The risottos and pastas are consistently excellent, particularly the daily specials, which might feature wild game, wild mushrooms or fresh herbs. The segundo tend to feature rabbit, duck, eel or tripe as specials, though there is always roast chicken or sliced steak. The meat dishes are perfectly prepared and seasoned, evidencing an un-fussy, yet sophisticated hand in the kitchen. The rabbit and duck were both delicious, and Cinghiale, a classic Tuscan stew of wild boar and olives that is too often lackluster, was perfection. Desserts are pleasant and the house wine decent.
I’m not sure who is in the kitchen, turning out this fantastic food, but the owner and his teenaged son run the dining room, with a friendly welcome and great enthusiasm.
And Unbelievably—four courses, house wine, coffee will set you back little more than €20 ($20) per person. If you can find it, I enthusiastically reccomend a meal—or several—at the Osteria di Meati.—Clay Doyle
Antica Osteria di Meati
Meati is about 3 kilometers west of Lucca
Follow the signs to Meati from the old road SS12
Telephone (39) 0583-510-373
Reservations advised
Originally posted November 2002. I revisited the Osteria di Meati several times in October of 2006 and found it better than ever. Sunday lunch on the lawn with big bistecca Friorentino is a special treat.—Clay
If you have firm travel plans, it’s definitely easier, less frustrating, and cheaper to buy European train tickets in advance. Rail Europe, the folks that bring you a dizzying array of rail passes, have recently upgraded their website (raileurope.com) to make it easier to find and purchase point to point tickets in Europe. Still, if you don’t find exactly what you are looking for, it’s a good idea to check the European rail websites—such as ns.nl (Netherlands), sncf.com (France), and especially bahn.de (Germany)—for detailed information about routes, stations, amenities and local rules. Remember, even if you purchase a pass, many trains (including sleepers and all high speed trains) require supplemental tickets.
Slightly mysterious, exotic, and yet often comfortably familiar, Istanbul is not just the city where Europe meets Asia, Christianity and Islam overlap and the familiar and the exotic coexist.
Istanbul today is one of Europe’s largest cities; as such, it is a collection of many cities in one — historic and modern, rich and poor, religious and secular. Perhaps this is not surprising for a city that has been capital of the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires.
The historic Sultanahmet can remind one of a fantastic museum, while vibrant Taksim Square, with its streets awash in bright yellow taxis, strolling youths, and street vendors recalls lower Manhattan. Affluent suburbs offer trendy restaurants (often on rooftop terraces with amazing views) and designer shops. Poor neighborhoods offer up hidden monuments of Byzantium and encounters with friendly locals.
In short, there is something for everyone — the modern, the traditional, nightlife, good food, history, art and monumental architecture, and friendly people. We didn’t know what to expect, but the tone was set on our first encounter upon arrival: A youthful, super-cute customs officer stamped our passports and welcomed us with a friendly smile.
Istanbul has the most developed gay scene you are likely to find in a Muslim country. That said, homosexuality, while legal and seemingly widespread, still exists out of sight, and some diligence is required to explore gay life in Istanbul.
It is quite common to see cute young men strolling arm in arm — sweet! — but you shouldn’t infer a sexual relationship. There is no English-language gay press, map or guide (and only one gay publication in Turkish), and many guidebooks and even Web sites are notoriously out of date and unreliable. So think of it as an adventure, and see what you can find.
Like broader Turkish society itself, gay life is marked by a rich/poor, traditional/modern, European/Ottoman dichotomy. You will see this in the gay bars and dance clubs, of which there are two distinct types. There are modern European-style bars and discos, with high prices, theme décor, and well-to-do Turks in the latest fashion who are likely to identify as gay, at least in private.
On the other hand, and more fascinating, are the “a la Turka” bars, which cater to a working-class clientele. These tend to be basic, no-frills affairs, with Turkish pop music. Some of the more famous, such as Sahra (Istiklal Caddesi/Sadri Alisik Sokak 40, Taksim; $3) cater to Istanbul’s transvestite community — alleged to be the largest in Europe — joined by rent boys, working-class youths, and straight tranny admirers.
My favorite bar was the conveniently located Déjà Vu (Istiklal Caddesi/Sadri Alisik Sokak 26/l; $5), essentially a small, undecorated concrete cube that managed an unintentional modernist chic. A small bar offered one kind of beer and one brand of energy drink. The crowd was young and working-class — some hustlers, no doubt, but also guys out with friends and boys avoiding long bus rides to far-off suburbs.
Music blared, and the abundant staff (three doormen, two bartenders, two waiters and a DJ, were most happy to have us order more than the one-drink minimum. (Alcohol, heavily taxed by the Islamic government, is expensive in a city where most things are a bargain . . . the $5 beers were obviously an extravagance here.)
Not so in the European-style clubs, such as Neo (Lamartin Caddesi 40/z, Taksim; Tel: +90 212 254 4526; Fax: +90 212 245 6821; www.neobar.gen.tr; $10), and Privé (Tarlabasi Bulvari 28, Taksim; Tel: +90 212 235 7999; $10), where pricey drinks, Western music, and designer fashions are more the norm. Here the feeling is that of a gay venue in any major city.
All the gay clubs are in the Taksim area, except for the summer-only open-air disco Douche Club (Sepetciler Kasri/Kennedy Caddesi 3, Sarayburnu, Eminonu; Tel: +90 212 511 6386; Wed, Fri, Sat, $10) overlooking the Golden Horn at the foot of the Topkapi Palace.
You can also take in a hammam. There were reputedly several where discreet gay encounters took place, but this seems to be on the wane. Sadly, Turks seldom go to the hammam now, preferring the pleasures of indoor plumbing.
The historic hammams are worth a visit for the spectacular architecture, but the scrubbing can be perfunctory and the clientele all tourists. One older hammam, Çukurcuma (Çurkacuma Caddesi 57, Beyoglu: daily 9pm-9am; $18), does function as a de facto gay bathhouse — it’s open all night.
There are two locations for lodging in Istanbul, each with certain advantages. Most tourists choose to stay in Sultanahmet, the historic center just steps from the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the bazaars and other major sites. The plentiful hotels here tend to occupy renovated 19th-century wooden Ottoman houses, and are moderate in amenities and price. Many offer terrific views of the city from rooftop breakfast rooms. Rooms themselves can range from comfortable to grim.
The Best Western chain (Acropol Hotel; Hotel Spectra; Obelisk Hotel; $60-$150), surprisingly, offers several hotels of high standards. The most stylish small hotel is the charming Nomade (Divanyolu Caddesi/Ticaretheane Sokak 15, Sultanahmet; Tel +90 212 513 8172; Fax +90 212 513 2404; Hotel Nomade; $75-$120), featuring a hip décor and a friendly, young management. There are no gay hotels in Istanbul, but this one has a definite vibe.
For unparalleled luxury, the new Four Seasons (1 Tevkifhane Sokak, Sultanahmet;1 800 332 3442 or +90 212 638 8200; www.fourseasons.com; $340+), housed in a converted jail, is the only hotel of its class in the old city.
The Sultanahmet location puts you close to the major sights, but it is very touristy, and lacking in the vibrant street life and nightlife you will find in Beyoglu around Taksim Square. This area is the heart of the modern city, pulsing with life 24 hours a day, and featuring a multitude of shops, bars, cafés and locals.
While Taksim Square has a few budget lodging options, this area has most of the big luxury hotels. Particularly nice is the Hyatt Regency (Taskisla Caddesi No. 1, Taksim; Tel: +90 212 368 1234; Fax: +90 212 368 1000; http://istanbul.regency.hyatt.com; $250-$340), with its attentive service, spacious and modern rooms and resort-like pool and spa. Do stay on the club floor, where you get complimentary breakfast and cocktails along with a helpful concierge. It’s walking distance to Istiklal Caddesi, the main pedestrian street, and a short cab ride to Sultanahmet or luxury shopping in the suburbs.
Turkish food is delicious, and Istanbul abounds in fresh fish. The best fish restaurant in the city is the unassuming Balikçi Sabahattin (1 Seyit Hasan/KoyuSokak, Sultanahhmet; Tel: +90 212 458 1824; $20), where the daily catch is displayed on ice and tables are arrayed on a delightful terrace. Aside from the Four Seasons, it’s the best place to eat in Sultanahmet.
Restaurants abound along the pedestrian Istiklal Caddesi off Taksim Square, but avoid the tourist traps; even guidebook recommendations can be suspect. For delicious mezas (a variety of small plates selected from a tray), honestly priced, Victor Levi, Degustasion, andCumhuriyet (around Sahne Sokak at the Balik Pazan fish market off Istiklal Caddesi, Sultanahmet; no reservations, open late; small plates $4-$8) are all fine choices.
The traditional drink is raki, a drink similar to ouzo, but you may find that Turkish beer or the increasingly excellent Turkish wines are a better complement to the food.
To experience a very traditional lokanta, the Turkish version of a cafeteria, try the elegantly appointed Haci Abdullah (Sakizagaci Caddesi 17, Beyoglu; Tel: +90 212 293 8561; $12). Choose typical hot dishes from a display case and sip the surprisingly delicious grape juice (no alcohol is served).
Or join the in crowd at Vogue (BJK Plaza, Suleyman Seba Caddesi 92, Akaretler; Tel: +90 212 227 4404; $10-$22), one of the high-style international restaurants that offer fantastic views from atop Istanbul’s skyscrapers.
It is essential to take the public ferry up the Bosphorus and back. Enjoy incredible views and have lunch in a fishing village in Asia! Justinian’s underground cistern is a must-see, along with (obviously) the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. This is just a beginning, though — consult mainstream guidebooks for a vast selection of mosques, Byzantine churches, Roman ruins, museums and historic sitesWe recommend Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com).
Everyone in Sultanahmet wants to sell you a rug. Not a particularly compact souvenir, and unless you are an expert in carpets, you are likely to pay too much and/or get a machine-made rug from China. Good carpets are expensive, even in Turkey.
It’s much more fun to bargain for cheap trinkets at the Grand Bazaar. You can always get them to knock a buck off a $5 purchase! And the array of merchandise is astonishing.
General travel information: Guidebooks are useful, but some contain more outdated and erroneous information than usual, as do Web sites, though an Internet search will yield lots of information. The city is changing quickly; ask your hotel concierge, waiters you like and even salesclerks for their advice.
Turks are friendly to strangers and will gladly offer advice and opinions as well ask you a million questions. Beware only of strangers offering to take you to “a special club” — these are clip joints where it is likely you will lose a great deal of money. We were solicited several times in this manner, by a couple of 15-year-olds and by a man who told us he knew a place with “crazy ho’s.” The come-on is fairly obvious, and a polite “No thanks, I’m meeting someone” is enough to discourage them.
There is a $20 visa fee payable (in U.S. dollars or euros only) upon entering the country. The visa is valid for 30 days. A good map is essential, but the inexpensive taxis (taksi, in the phonetic Turkish language) are indispensable.
Unless you are going someplace well-known, write the name and address, as most drivers do not speak English. The Turkish government recently simplified its notoriously inflated currency, dropping six zeros, so that what was formerly 1,000,000 Turkish lira has become 1 (cutely named) young Turkish lira, about 70 U.S. cents.
By Clay Doyle for Gay.com
photos 1,2,3,7 by Michael Logan, photos 4,5,6 by Clay Doyle
See the article (plus very entertaining reader comments) on gay.com at
Leavenworth, Kansas, northeast of Kansas City, and known primarily as the home of a Federal Penitentiary and a Military Prison, could be considered “off the beaten track”. Though it was once, in the mid 19th century, the largest city between St. Louis and San Francisco, today it has a decidedly sleepy, small town atmosphere. There aren’t too many places worth eating if you find yourself in Leavenworth—but there is one tiny place that is terrific—perhaps even worth a special trip.
Marfield’s is a small Bar-B-Que joint in downtown Leavenworth—in a part of the country famous for Bar-B-Que and steaks. It was recommended to me by the proprietress of a local giftshop, the wife of a retired army officer who had lived for many years in Europe, and seemed to have a great appreciation for good food.
I Didn’t know what to expect really, as it’s a very unassuming sort of dust colored stucco shack on an empty block—with not even a sign outside. But once you step through the door it is a real surprise—very nicely done up in a manner that is both friendly yet stylish. There are nice wooden booths with really nice copper clad tables and pale spare walls. The place is quite small, but divided by a low wall into two rooms—one with six small booths and the other with a long bar and a few tall tables. The building was once a carriage house, and had been a bar and restaurant for a long time after that. It had been closed for a while when David Spangler, proprietor and chef, acquired it. After extensive interior renovation, he opened Marfield’s in January 2002.
We arrived for lunch a bit after two, rather late for lunch—especially in the midwest—and as we were the only customers at that hour, we had a long conversation with David. He had previously owned a larger restaurant, but wanted to get away from the problems of management, and have a small place where he could fully indulge his passion for good food. He did all the renovations himself—including inlaying the bar top with a collection of vintage souvenirs—and during our visit served as both chef and waiter. And the food was excellent. I had the BBQ ribs—they are falling off the bone tender, with a fine smoky crust and accompanied by David’s own-recipe sauce for dipping. (This is his Dixie sauce—vinegary and complex; he offers a sweeter, more conventional BBQ sauce as well, in response to local demand). Of course I had to order all the side dishes as well—a fine potato salad, crunchy fresh-tasting coleslaw, and a special concoction of baked beans that are perhaps the finest I have ever had. The menu is limited—ribs and steaks; a few large salads; a hamburger, and some sandwiches at lunch. There’s a nice assortment of beer on tap, and a full bar as well.
This is truly Travel Tip material—a real find. It’s delicious, it’s new, the owner is great, there are not so many good places to eat in Leavenworth—and it is not a place you’d be likely to wander into on your own.
David did say he was having a sign made, however!—Clay Doyle
When Dresden celebrates its 800th anniversary with a year-long party in 2006, it won’t just be a celebration of centuries of history and culture. It will also be a birthday party for the new Dresden—a city that has, in a frenzy of reconstruction and renovation, recreated in a mere 15 years the historic city that was almost entirely lost, overnight, some 60 years ago…
Possibly Europe’s greatest Baroque city, the 18th century imperial seat of Augustus the Strong, capital of Saxony, Dresden had become a nearly mythical symbol of loss and of the destructive power of modern warfare. The city stood intact, virtually untouched by WWII—officially recognized as an open city—and filled with refugees from the collapsing Third Reich, when its historic center, the Altstadt, was completely destroyed in a single night of Allied bombing, February 13-14, 1945. With its splendid monuments then reduced to rubble, Dresden became most famous for its destruction—an event immortalized in Kurt Vonnegut Jr.’s celebrated novel Slaughterhouse Five. The sense of loss can still be felt, as large tracts of central Dresden are only now being redeveloped. Locked behind the Iron Curtain, forces that wanted to rebuild the ruins and those which wanted them replaced with a modern Socialist utopia collided in stalemate. However, with reunification came both the desire for reconstruction and a huge influx of public and private funding.
Today, most of the historic buildings fronting the Elbe have been rebuilt to give a breathtaking glimpse of what the city once was. The resurrected Frauenkirche—one of Dresden’s most famous monuments, largely completed and reopening on October 30th, is only the most visible symbol of a city of splendors finally rising from the ashes. With the Schloss to be fully reconstructed in time for the anniversary, and previously rebuilt monuments newly renovated, the baroque city of 18th century seems reborn. Dresden is now arguably Europe’s newest historical monument.
Simultaneously, across the Elbe, a different sort of rebirth has taken place. Without the benefit of EU funds or massive financing, local Dresdeners, with gays and artists leading the charge, have reclaimed and restored the city’s Neustadt. This neighborhood of 19th century apartment blocks was just outside the area of firebombing—with the consequence that its buildings are now among Dresden’s oldest. Under the communist regime, this was an undesirable area of crumbling buildings and cold-water flats. Now squats and crumbling buildings have largely given way to lovingly restored courtyard apartments with restaurants, bars, coffee houses, and hip, interesting shops—making the Neustadt Dresden’s liveliest neighborhood. Still, it’s far from gentrified; a Bohemian, even slacker, air prevails. The creation of the Kunsthof Passage (Alaunstrasse 70, Görlitzerstrasse 21, 23, 25), a renovation by local artists of a series of interlocking courtyards is typical Neustadt—a triumph of creativity and imagination over limited funds.
The Sights
Despite the wholesale destruction of the second world war, the main attraction is the city itself. The Schlossplatz, at the foot of the Augustus Bridge, surrounded by the reconstructed riverfront monuments, is perhaps one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. Likewise, the baroque folly of the Zwinger complex, perhaps Dresden’s most photographed monument, is a riot of sculpture and elaborate decoration surrounding an immense but perfectly proportioned courtyard. A number of rebuilt churches are likewise impressive, and with the reconstruction of the monumental Frauenkirche, and the completion of the reconstruction of the Schloss by 2006, all of the major monuments of the baroque city will be in place. It is worth the 8 euro fee to climb to the cupola of the Frauenkirche (be advised, the elevator only takes you halfway) for a magnificent view from the highest point in the city. Already the riverfront skyline is largely returned to its appearance in Canaletto’s famous 18th century paintings. These paintings occupy pride of place in Dresden’s Old Masters Picture Gallery—while his celebrated views of Venice are confined to a small side gallery. This is perhaps as much a testament to the impressive quality of the museum’s collection as it is to local pride—the collection is large and positively stuffed with Dutch and Italian old master paintings. The galleries are remarkable too for the lack of crowds; you can really enjoy the artworks. All of Dresden’s famous museums will be open again by 2006, following various major and minor refurbishments. Well worth a visit is the Abertinum, for its New Masters Gallery—a comprehensive collection of German art from the 19th and 20th centuries. Newly reopened is the first phase of the famous Grünes Gewölbe or Green Vault, in new high-tech rooms in the reconstructed Schloss. The second half of the collection opens in 2006 in adjacent, restored baroque rooms. It is a vast—truly vast—collection of jewelry, precious metals, and fanciful curios elaborately constructed of gold filigree and gemstones assembled by the fabulously wealthy Saxon Electoral Princes. This is the only collection in Dresden where you’ll find a crowd—it’s on the top of the list for coach tours—and whether you find it to be a magnificent display of artistry and craftsmanship or a shocking excess of jewel-encrusted wealth, you will be impressed. Don’t miss it. And there are plenty more museums; depending on your interests you can explore Meissen porcelain, mathematics, transport, folk art, hygiene, history, Trabant autos and more!
The Semper Opera is famous both for its architecture and the quality of its productions. All of Dresden turns out for opera, ballet and the orchestral performances, so tickets can be hard to come by. In summer, outdoor concerts abound, with choices ranging from classical to contemporary—many with free admission. If you speak German, you may want to visit the very popular river-front open-air cinema. Do take some time to visit the Grosser Garten, Dresden’s expansive and lovely urban park. There’s a palace at the center and a charming miniature railroad to take you back when you’re tired of walking. Beyond the Altstadt, a walk through the Blasewitz district is worth it to see the elaborate 19th century villas built by wealthy Dresden bourgeoisie. The neighborhood escaped destruction in 1945 and the villas are now being lovingly restored. Though most tourists rarely venture to the Neustadt, you will definitely want to spend time there, with its lively cafes, gay scene, fun shops and bohemian atmosphere.
Don’t miss a walk along the banks of the Elbe. This wide, marshy river is unique among urban waterways in bringing nature right through the city center. The banks of the Elbe are excellent as well for bicycling—whether you take a leisurely ride through the city or a longer trip to a picturesque nearby town, the scenery is beautiful, the terrain flat, and you’re protected from cars. Indeed, bicycle paths extend the entire length of the Elbe, from the Czech border to the port of Hamburg! Even in the city, traffic is light and the drivers polite, making a bike a convenient and pleasant option for getting around the city. Rent a comfortable, modern bike from the pleasant folks at Engel Reisen (Wiesontorstrasse 3, somewhat hidden at the Neustadt end of the Augustus bridge; +49 351/281 9206; 8 euros/day) and they will even provide maps with suggested city and out-of-town routes. They also organize longer group bike tours in the region—enquire for tours in English. If all that sounds too strenuous, you can tour the Elbe in a vintage paddlewheel steamboat—you can’t miss the ships docked near Augustus bridge.
It is worth purchasing a Dresden City-Card (widely available at hotels, stations and tourist offices; 19 euros for 48 hours) upon arrival. Not only does the card get you free admission to almost all Dresden museums, it allows you unlimited use of the city’s public transit (love those yellow trams!)—allowing you to bypass the expense and hassle of individual tickets.
The Gay Scene
You’ll see plenty of gays in Dresden: in shops, cafes, walking the streets— looking handsome, and even cruising. You’ll find them rather less often in Dresden’s handful of gay bars. Gay people were so central to the revival of the Neustadt area (buying the old buildings as the post-communist government disposed of them; renovating them, moving in, and opening business) that the gay community is a more than integral part of area. Dresden my be a model for the “post-gay” city. Because they regard the whole of the Neustadt as their own (while happily sharing it with young straight couples and wide range of slacker youth types—the median age in the Neustadt is ten years younger than the city as a whole) there is not a strong tendency to congregate in exclusively gay venues. As one Dresdener told me, “We usually go where ever the nightly drink special is—and the gay bars never have specials!” That said, BOYS (Alaunstrasse 80; 8pm—5am; www.boys-dresden.de) with its front windows open to one of the Neustadt’s main streets, draws a lively crowd most evenings—it’s your best bet. The smaller, campier Queens (Görlitzer Strasse 3; from 8pm; +49 49 351 810 8108; www.queens-dresden.de), sometimes draws a younger crowd for its various theme parties. For the leather and fetish crowd, Bunker (Priessnitzstrasse 51; +49 351/441 2345; www.lederclub-dresden.de) is open Friday and Saturday nights only (and on Saturday dares to limit attendance with a strict dress code!) It has a friendly bar and a large darkroom, but I suspect many Dresdeners prefer the infinite variety of the Berlin cruising scene, only two hours away. The other “cruise” venues are barely worth mentioning. The relatively new Pick Up (Jordanstrasse 10) is a darkroom bar that has yet to find a clientele, and across the street stands Duplexx (Förstereistrasse 10; +49 351 65 88 999; 9 euro entry!), a branch of the Berlin sex shop, comprising a cavernous warren of deserted video cabins. The Showboxx (Leipzigerstrasse 31; www.showboxx-dresden.de), while no longer featuring exclusively gay nights, is one of several mixed discos popular with gays for dancing. In addition, the open-air “beer gardens” than pop up on vacant lots in the summer months are also popular. Lesbians can enjoy the aptly named frauen café and bar Sappho (Hechtstrasse 23; +49 351 4045136; www.sappho-dresden.de) open nightly for drinks and dinner and on Sunday for brunch.
Finally, what could be gayer, and at the same time more mainstream, than a drag show? Carte Blanche (Priessnitzstrasse 10/12; +49 351 20 4720; www.carte-blanche.de; 25 euros, reservations essential) is a relatively new basement cabaret hosting a very professional troupe of drag queens. Shows feature a mix of comedy, lip-synch, live performance, audience humiliation—and costumes worthy of a Las Vegas production. If drag is your thing, the show is a scream; though without a command of the language you are likely to miss a lot. And while the performers and cute waiters may be gay, the audience tends toward straight middle-aged German tourists.
Sleeping it off
The ultimate place to stay in Dresden is the Hotel Bülow Residenz (Rähnitzgasse 19; +49 351/800 30; fax +49 351/8003100; www.buelow-residenz.de ; 180—220 euros), a 30 room ultra-luxury boutique hotel in a restored 18th century palace. This place has everything: an historic building, luxurious rooms, and great location in the charmingly restored inner Neustadt—a short walk to the historic attractions and convenient to the to the gay area. It even features complementary mini-bars! The service is friendly and efficient, and it’s really a bargain for this level of luxury.
All the major international chains are represented in the old center of Dresden, from the modern yet inexpensive Mercure Hotel Newa (St. Petersburger Strasse 34; +49 351/48140; from 69 euros; www.mercure.com) to the ultra luxurious Kempinski Taschenbergpalais (Taschenberg 3; +49 351/491 2636; fax +49 351/491 2812; www.kempinski-dresden.de; 340—700 euros). Housed in a reconstructed Baroque palace adjacent the historic schloss, the Kempinski is arguably Dresden’s most beautiful—and most expensive—hotel. The Holiday Inn (Stauffenberallee 25 a; +49 351/81510; fax: +49 351/815 1333; www.holiday-inn-dresden.de; 100-150 euros), of all places, gets points for actively courting a gay clientele—though most of its guests are businessmen and women. It’s a generic, but perfectly pleasant property, and though its location at first seems somewhat remote, it’s actually very convenient to the Neustadt, and a nearby tram line offers a speedy connection to the city’s attractions.
For the independent-minded traveler, the best option may be the City Cottage Dresden (Louisenstrasse 11; +49 179/5228241; fax +49 351/442 4584; www.city-cottage-dresden.de; 41-62 euros), a gay owned rental apartment that sits inside a quiet, enchanted garden in the very heart of the Neustadt. It can be rented with one or two bedrooms and accommodates from one to four persons. Currently there is only one apartment available (so book early) although several more are being renovated.
Eating Well
Eating in the historic center of Dresden is far more pleasant than one would expect from an area frequented mostly by tourists. The cafés and restaurants offer good quality and surprisingly reasonable prices—along with some truly gorgeous locations. You can try traditional Saxon specialties like wurst and beer (do try the local Radeberger Pilsner) at Radeberger Spezialausschank (Terrassenufer 1; +49 351/484 8660; fax +49 351/484 8631; $3-12), which offers an unbeatable location with a umbrella shaded terrace overlooking the Elbe and the Augustus bridge. The terrace café at the Kempinski Hotel Taschenbergpalais (Taschenberg 3; +49 351/496 0174) offers both traditional and lighter, international fare in a convenient and charming setting (and at non-luxury hotel prices). Likewise, Café Alte Meister (Theatreplatz 1a; +49 351/ 481 0426; www.altemeister.net) with a terrace nestled in the shade of the Zwinger complex, is a nice option for either lunch or the German tradition of afternoon coffee and cake.
For the best selection of restaurants though, head over to the lively, untoursisty Neustadt. Here the streets are lined with local eateries, offering an array of international cuisines and everything from inexpensive cafés to moderately priced upscale restaurants. Here you can find just about anything: French, Italian, Indian, and salads and sandwiches in charming cafes, many with outdoor terraces. As a local resident remarked, “Only the tourists eat Saxon food!” which may be only a slight exaggeration. To start your exploration, try the local favorite Tiki Ice Cafe (Gorlitzer Strasse 21; inexpensive) in the charming Kunsthof passage. Or make for the nearby bar-restaurant Cigales (Aluanstrasse 68; inexpensive) on the bustling Aluanstrasse. For a more elaborate dinner, try the delicious, Mediterranean influenced Villandry (Jordanstrasse 8; +49 351/ 899 6724; www.villandry.de; dinner mon-sat; main courses 9—15 euros.)
For the dedicated gourmand, Dresden offers one Michelin-starred restaurant, the elegant Caroussel (in the Hotel Bülow Residenz; Rähnitzgasse 19; +49 351/80030; fax +49 351/8003100). As you might expect, you’ll find top ingredients exquisitely prepared, flawless service and a formal setting. It’s still rather a bargain for the Michelin star experience, with four course menus about 60 euros.
Shopping the Neustadt
A number of gleaming new shopping complexes have sprung up around the main train station (currently being rennovated in high-style by London architect Sir Norman Foster), offering the usual cornucopia of European and American brand names. But for the truly interesting shopping opportunities one must head across the river to the Neustadt. Check out the club-kid fashions at Men Only (Alaunstrasse 18; +49 351/821 0836), a fun, über-gay clothes shop where the friendly staff are also well informed about the local nightlife scene. You’ll find shops here selling everything from second hand clothing to expensive designer jeans; from skateboards to hand-made paper. The Alaunstrasse and the adjoining side-streets, and especially the Kunsthof passage, are filled with trendy and unusual shops. You can even check it all out online at the stylish website www.gappy.de.
More Information
As in most German cities, the Dresden Tourist office (in the neo-classical Schinkelwache, on the Theaterplatz; +49 351/ 491920) is a terrific resource. As well as providing maps, schedules of events, and guides to the museums and sights, they can also find you a hotel room or get you tickets to the Semper Opera. Scope it out in advance at www.dresden-tourist.de , where they also have an online hotel reservation service. Gegenpol is Dresden’s own free local monthly gay magazine, which can be scored at the bars and shops throughout the neustadt. They have comprehensive listings with addresses, which are also conveniently available on their website at www.gegenpol.net.
Story and Photographs by Clay Doyle
I had the pleasure of revisiting Dresden in August of 2005. This is an expanded version of an article written for gay.com Travel. You can find the short version at gay.com Travel at http://www.gay.com/travel/article.html?sernum=9544 .
Please note that the fantastic Restaurant Olivia closed in 2007.
If you live in the San Francisco Bay Area, or will be visiting, do not fail to pay a call on chef Nathan Peterson’s new restaurant Olivia, in America’s culinary epicenter, Berkeley, California.
I had the pleasure of two meals at Olivia, over the fourth of July weekend, a few weeks after it opened. The intimate 26 seat restaurant, with a wood burning fireplace and a zinc bar, offers the romantic ambiance of a fine small restaurant in rural France or Italy…
The food too is inspired by Europe, particularly the Mediterranean including Italy, France, Spain and even north Africa—but employing, in the Berkeley tradition, many organic, locally raised products. The menu is organized in the manner of a small European restaurant as well—offering a mere handful of appetizers (at $7 each), main courses ($19) and desserts ($6) which change daily based on what’s best from the market. Sometimes it’s deceptively simple, like a brilliant lamb shank that had been cooked slowly, probably all day. Other dishes are deliciously complex, like the cornmeal pancake with trout, bacon, arugula and Meyer lemon crème—one appetizer that seems a constant on the otherwise changing menu. Desserts tend to feature amazingly fresh fruit and intensely flavored house-made ice creams. The daily menus are posted on the restaurant website…In fact, I find myself checking the menu online once a week or so, just for the mouth-watering descriptions of what’s currently on offer.
I have to confess, unlike most of my travel tips, Olivia is not a little gem we happened to stumble across—Nathan is a friend of long standing. I have eaten Nathan’s cooking for twenty years—at the always excellent Bay Wolf in Oakland, where he was chef for many years; in his own home, where he effortlessly prepares fabulous feasts; and even in my own kitchen in Amsterdam! His cooking is superb—a brilliant combination of well-chosen ingredients, experience, and a talent for simple innovation. I’ve learned a lot about cooking just by watching him prepare a meal at home—and yet he can still dazzle me with something as simple a prosciutto and melon—a dish that is a staple of my own repertoire—with a couple of his personal and subtle twists.
A further note: Michael Logan and I, through The Doyle/Logan Company, designed the logo, cards, menu and website for Olivia. Otherwise, the charming restaurant itself was entirely designed by the multi-talented Nathan and his partner, David Holcombe, with the help of their friends.—Clay Doyle
When returning from a trip, a game often played with my traveling companions is the question “What was your favorite thing….?” On a recent trip to Yosemite National Park, Michael answered “The Ahwahnee.” I replied, “The waterfalls!”. And Michael immediately agreed. Yes. The waterfalls. The recent record rainfall in California, viewed by the locals as at best something to be endured, to slog through, month after month, and by an unfortunate few as genuine natural disaster, at last offers a consolation: the spectacular waterfalls at Yosemite. It’s early spring when we visit, the last major snowstorm only two days in the past, and the melting snow fueling amazing, cascading, waterfalls throughout the valley. We are told they will only grow more spectacular through May, before most eventually dry up and disappear with the hot summer months…
It was a beautiful drive up from LA, once past Fresno. There’s nice spring weather but still some snow around from Friday’s big snowstorm. But today is very mild. Our first activity in Yosemite, typically for us, is dinner—at the Ahwahnee hotel. A delicious meal, plus this beautiful view of Yosemite falls framed by the huge window at the end of the elegant dining room. Little plates of assorted starters: duck ravioli, mushrooms, crab cakes, shrimp. Venison for main course, very tasty with some cabbage and risotto. Pot de crème for dessert. Rather expensive, but good, California wines. Saw a ring-tailed cat climbing around the rafters of the dining room! Outside, after dinner, there were like five raccoons wandering around on the tables outside the bar. There is no mobile phone service here in the park, but there is wifi in the lounge downstairs. Doesn’t reach our room however. The hotel is very amusing, grand yet still very much 8o years old. It doesn’t seem over glamorized.
Yosemite National Park is an iconic place; just the name conjures images: the silhouette of Halfdome; the valley ringed by towering waterfalls; the eclectic luxury of the Art Deco meets Native America Ahwahnee hotel; hiking, rock climbing, the world famous photographs of Ansel Adams. Indisputably, Yosemite is a place of incredible natural beauty even for California—a state abounding with beautiful landscapes.
But if you think of Yosemite, do you think Gay Destination— it seems most unlikely! Strangely, we are visiting the park with as small group of journalists from various gay media at the invitation of the Yosemite press office. Writers for such publications as various as the national Out Traveler and the local San Francisco Bay Area Reporter. I’m not sure who I’m writing for! The invitation came only a few days before, and the day after I drive back from to LA, I fly to Europe. But I decided it was an opportunity to good to miss—surprisingly, after all my years in California, I’ve been to Yosemite only once before, and that just for an afternoon on an unseasonably warm February day.
All the writers met at last nights dinner, along with our hosts and guides from the Park. In charge of our little gay group is Public Relations Manager, Kerri Holden, charming and organized, but surprisingly young. So much younger that the rest of us—and from a suburban background that doesn’t involve a lot of gay life—that some of the writers make a game of educating her to the more outlandish, fetishistic, and amusing frontiers of the gay “community.” To her credit, she is amused: curious and unshockable.
You may wonder, in this time of increased hostility toward gay issues from the Federal Government, why one of their National Parks has suddenly taken the initiative to direct a special marketing effort to gay and lesbian visitors. The answer to this lies in the perhaps surprising organization of the park—for while it is owned by the federal government—actually the American people—the park is run and administered by a private corporation. All the hotels, campsites, food facilities, equipment rentals, tours, shops, public relations, and public infrastructure is managed by DNC Parks and Resorts, which has an exclusive contract for the park’s concessions, and it is this private company that is actively courting gay and lesbian visitors. Interestingly, the park has always had a public/private component. Before there was a park, early entrepreneurs provided provisions to the first hearty 19th century visitors, and later built hotels and residences. In response to increasing development, Abraham Lincoln signed legislation giving Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Sequoia Grove to the State of California as a public trust. Although Yosemite became only the third National Park, in 1890, it was actually the first land in the U.S. ever set aside for the preservation of it’s scenic beauty. Still, private individuals offered lodging and amenities, until the largest operators were merged into the Yosemite Park and Curry Company in 1925 in order to tightly control expansion and development. Since 1991, DNC Parks and Resorts has managed Yosemite’s recreation, lodging, food and guest services—and is publicly courting gay and lesbian visitors.
OK, they haven’t turned it overnight into a gay Mecca, and probably never will. And it really seems beside the point, as Yosemite is a fantastic place to visit, for anyone.
Eighty percent of Yosemite’s visitors come between Memorial and Labor days—but unless you’re a hardcore adventure enthusiast, you’ll be better off avoiding this busy season. The PR folks tell us that summer isn’t that bad…they have done much to limit the impact of cars, for example; I’m not entirely convinced—it seems a certain solitude is the essence of nature, and the park is in April by no means deserted! The advantages of summer of course is that the entire park is accessible—there are multi-day hikes and horseback tours through the vast high country, rock climbing, and lots of opportunity for vigorous hiking and camping. But the famous valley, and the main attractions for the more leisurely traveler are best visited in spring and fall. Spring brings the most spectacular waterfalls, as the winter snows begin to melt. The high country is inaccessible, but the valley is still lightly populated and days can be pleasantly warm (though don’t be surprised by a sudden snowstorm.) Hikes of an hour or two to a full day can take you up the sides of the mountains for spectacular views over the falls. Rock climbing and bicycling are possible (bring your own bike if you with to cycle—the rented bikes are expensive, primitive, and available only in high season). Fall has the beautiful colors of turning leaves, and sees the return of the waterfalls after the dry summer season. The famous Mariposa Grove, with its ancient, giant sequoias, is only accessible by car in summer—probably reason enough to make the hour hike by foot to visit in the solitude of spring or fall. Winter is cold and snowy, but the hotels remain open and there are attractions for both the active and the aesthete. There is excellent skiing and there’s the Bracebridge Dinners—a gourmet and theatrical extravaganza based on a Renaissance Christmas feast and an Ahwahnee hotel tradition since 1927.
Where to stay in Yosemite? The first choice has to be the historic Ahwahnee hotel. Opt for the privacy of a bungalow in the forest, and come into the hotel for its lavish public rooms. Of course the Ahwahnee is impressively expensive—a more economical alternative is the Yosemite Lodge at the Falls—choose a deluxe room with a private patio, as far away from the restaurant and bar as possible. An economical option are the tent villages—basic but comfortable (in warm, dry weather) with food lockers, barbeques and communal bathing facilities—but nicely situated among the trees and streams. Take the smaller Housekeeping Camp rather than sprawling, raucous Curry Village. Outside the valley, convenient for skiing and to Sequoia Grove, is the Victorian-cute Wawona Hotel—the oldest in the Park.
Dining choices are somewhat limited—the best food by far is at the Ahwahnee Hotel, and the room itself is spectacular as well. The kitchen turns out first rate American cuisine—crab cakes and venison as well as Caesar salads and filet mignon. The more casual Mountain Room Restaurant (the Ahwahnee requires a jacket) is almost as pricey and not nearly as good. It’s worth dressing up for the Ahwahnee! There’s also a deli and a cafeteria serving petty good basic food, and more options in summer. You can bring your own food to the campsites of course—but you must keep it in a locker; crafty bears are highly skilled at sniffing out food and breaking into cars. Bears are best avoided, but deer, ring-tailed cats, and raccoons will walk right by paying you no attention at all!
There is friendly instruction in everything from mountain climbing to photography. And it’s fun—and in the off season at least—easy to meet the friendly, outgoing young staff—hundreds of workers come from all over the world to spend a few months working at the park. The staff are uniformly friendly and fun—from the PR Office, to the various activity instructors and leaders, to the hard-working busboys. You get the feeling that everyone enjoys being there—whether it is for three months or 21 years! When the employees are not working there is not a lot to do, and the Mountain Room Lodge—the bar at the Yosemite Lodge at the Falls—serves as a sort of social center. We found the park employees eager to chat—there was an avid rock-climber from nearby Fresno, a San Franciscan originally from Mexico, various college students and recent graduates—quite interesting in their diverse backgrounds.
Out last stop on the organized tour was the Tenaya Lodge, located just outside the park itself, and operated by the same management. It’s a large, relatively new hotel, built as a rustic lodge, that sits in the middle of a National Forrest. For this reason, it is aggressively fire-proofed—which you may find reassuring, or slightly disturbing, depending on your personality. Fatalist that I am, I just found it slightly amusing. I don’t spend a lot of time worrying about burning up—especially if I have a comfortable room to lounge about in. The Tenaya is nice, and far more reasonably priced than the Ahwahnee, but for me it catered far too much to business meetings, and to harried families (there are both extensive meeting facilities, and extensive pool and recreation facilities). It’s also an hour from the valley floor, so seems a bit remote. The restaurant however is excellent, our best meal since the Ahwahnee. Plus it’s a pleasant stop for the last night, as it put us an hour closer to LA for the return trip.
More information on activities, local conditions, and reservations can be found online at www.yosemitepark.com
A shorter article based on this entry appeared in Gay Travel News.
I’m often asked to recommend a “gay” hotel in Amsterdam — my usual response is to suggest booking any hotel you like; all hotels in Amsterdam are entirely gay friendly. A gay hotel here (and there are more than a few) has always seemed a bit unnecessary — unless one requires the specialized atmosphere and bondage-equipped rooms of the Black Tulip Hotel.
Though there a number of specialized gay hotels in Amsterdam, they — regretfully — mostly offer a lesser standard of comfort and style than many of the charming Canal House hotels that are merely “gay friendly.”
While my favorite hotels fall in this category — particularly the Ambassade and the smaller Seven Bridges — there is now a self-identified “straight-friendly” gay-owned and -run hotel that is equal in style and amenities to the best of the city’s mid-priced hotels. The Hotel New Amsterdam, located in one of the prettiest spots in the city center — the intersection of the Herengracht and Brouwersgracht — comprises three historic canal houses. Completely renovated by the new gay owners before opening last year, the hotel offers stylish rooms, modern baths, Rituals bath amenities, complimentary breakfast, canal views (from many rooms) and the unbeatable location. It’s not just picturesque, it is also quiet — and yet a short walk to Central Station and in fact any spot in the city.
Virtually next door is the romantic gay-owned restaurant De Belhamel, as well as the friendly Frederic Rent-a-Bike. Replacing and expanding the former gay hotel New York, the New Amsterdam is a worthy match for its “gay friendly” competition.
Amsterdam has finally joined the ranks of cities like London and New York in offering an half-price ticket service. Now you can buy available seats for a wide variety of events — classical music, pop concerts, theater, dance, jazz and even movies at the film museum — on the day of the performance for half price. It’s a great deal for visitors, who may not have made plans in advance, as well as for anyone with a free evening. The tickets are for sale in the Amsterdam Uitburo Ticket office (noon to 5:30 p.m.) on the Leidseplien — where you can also purchase advance tickets (at full price) for events anywhere in the city. You can see what is available each day online at www.lastminuteticketshop.nl, but you must purchase the tickets in person.
