{"id":166,"date":"2002-10-04T21:55:13","date_gmt":"2002-10-04T21:55:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/doylelogan.com\/anywherebuthere\/?p=166"},"modified":"2022-07-13T17:59:07","modified_gmt":"2022-07-13T17:59:07","slug":"the-red-and-the-white-a-food-and-wine-tour-of-burgundy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sunsetdrivestudio.com\/travel\/?p=166","title":{"rendered":"THE RED and THE WHITE: A food and wine tour of Burgundy"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

One of France\u2019s most famous wine regions, Burgundy features a picture-postcard landscape of vineyards, forests, fields, canals, medieval towns, and Romanesque monasteries; charming country inns; and of course, delicious food and wine. Easily accessible from Paris\u2014and considerably less expensive than the French capital\u2014Burgundy is ideal for a relaxing holiday or a romantic getaway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n

The Red: Beaune and the C\u00f4te d\u2019Or<\/strong><\/p>\n

For many, Burgundy is synonymous with red wine. Red burgundies are made from pinot noir, but they will not be labeled with the grape variety, and only the least expensive will be labeled Burgundy. Most will carry the appellation of a specific, often tiny, area, such as Fixin, Mersault or Rully–the villages of the C\u00f4te d\u2019Or, or golden hillsides\u2014each with its own distinctive character. Many of the wineries\u2014and there are many\u2014offer tastings; unless you are a serious oenophile, it can be a bit hard to know where to begin. One of the best ways to experience different wines is with food\u2014and the restaurants accommodate with a huge selection of the local product. Not surprisingly, the region\u2019s delicious specialties are a perfect accompaniment to burgundy wines. Classic Burgundian dishes include escargot (snails in butter and garlic), jambon persill\u00e9 (a terrine of ham and jellied parsley), the braised dishes of coq au vin and boeuf bourguignon, and meats (especially the famed Charolais beef) grilled over a wood fire. Beaune, the beautiful medieval town that is the spiritual center of Burgundy, boasts a selection of fine restaurants.\u00a0Le Jardin des Remparts<\/span> (10 Rue de l\u2019H\u00f4tel Dieu; +03\/8024-7941; $18-25) may have Beaune\u2019s best food, and the tables set within the walled garden of a manor house make an unbeatably romantic location. The smaller\u00a0Le B\u00e9naton<\/span> (25 Faubourg Bretonni\u00e8re; +03\/8022-0026; $18-22) offers equally fine, creative food, if a less impressive location. Though it looks touristy, La Grilladine<\/span> (19 Rue Maufoux; +03\/8022-2236) around the corner from the Hotel Dieu, has good regional dishes, a great wine list, and pleasant tables along the sidewalk. There are also many country inns thoughout the region where you can eat\u2014and drink\u2014extraordinarily well for very little money by sticking to the\u00a0menu du terrior<\/span>, the regional specialties. A delicious example is the\u00a0Auberge du Coteau<\/span> in the tiny village of Villars-Fontaine (03\/8061-1050; $8-10) near Nuits-Saint-Georges, where the meats are roasted in the dining room fireplace. And do have a Kir, the local aperitif, properly made with Bourgonge Aligote and locally produced cr\u00e9me de cassis.<\/p>\n

\"Glass\"<\/p>\n

The White: Chablis and the Yonne<\/strong><\/p>\n

Chablis, unlike Beaune, is just a village–one of many tiny, picturesque towns scattered about the quieter, less touristy, white wine region of the Yonne. Though the name Chablis has been appropriated (unfairly) by cheap wine producers around the world, the real thing is a distinctive, sophisticated dry chardonnay whose character none-the-less varies greatly with the style of the many individual producers. Start your tour of the wineries with a visit to\u00a0Les Chablisienne <\/span>(8 Boulevard Pasteur; +03\/8642-8989) in Chablis, a wine cooperative with 280 members. In nearby Bailly you\u2019ll also find the best of the sparkling, champange-like, Cremant du Bourgonge (the Yonne is adjacent Champagne). Try a glass while nibbling a Goug\u00e8res, a little cheese puff that is a local favorite. Other regional specialties include Andouillettes (tripe sausages); Jambon Morvan ( a raw cured ham served in thick slices); soft cows-milk cheeses–famously \u00c9poisses, a smelly, runny cheese; and Chaources, a milder creamy cheese; Pain d\u2019 Epices (gingerbread); and in springtime, fresh cherries and asparagus. Chef Michel Vignaud\u2019s\u00a0Hostellerie des Clos <\/span>(Rue Jules-Rathier; +03\/8642-1063; fax +03\/8642-1711; $20-40), in Chablis, is the region\u2019s best restaurant\u2014it was created as a showcase for the local wines, and gourmet menus are excellently crafted to show them at their best. Everything is top quality, and set menus provide excellent value. A good choice for a less formal meal is the\u00a0Auberge des Tilleuls<\/span> (+03\/8642-2214; $12-16) in Vincelottes, with al fresco dining at tables set along the picturesque river Yonne. Not to be missed is the tiny\u00a0Le St. Bris <\/span>(13 Rue d l\u2019 Eglise; +03\/8653-8456 $10-15) in the village of St. Bris le Vineux, where chef-owner Jean Francois Pouillot will prepare you a memorable meal of regional specialties. In addition, restaurants belonging to the Terrior de L\u2019Yonne association are highly recommended.<\/p>\n

Beyond Food and Wine<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Of course you can\u2019t eat and drink the whole day; but fortunately there is plenty to do between (or instead of) lunch and dinner. The gently rolling hills are popular with cyclists, and you can rent bikes for a few hours or a few days, with maps and itineraries provided: in Beaune at\u00a0Bourgonge Randonn\u00e9s<\/span> (7, Avenue du 8 Septembre +03\/8022-0603); and at the\u00a0Chablis Tourist Office <\/span>(1 Quai Biez; +03\/8642-8080). Beaune itself has much of interest. Most famous of its historic sites is the\u00a0H\u00f4tel-Dieu<\/span>, a beautifully restored medieval hospital complex. Also worth a seeing are the Romanesque church,\u00a0Coll\u00e9giale Notre-Dame<\/span>, and the town\u00a0ramparts <\/span>and moat. The region was a center of the medieval monastic tradition\u2014the powerful Cluniac and Cistercian orders were both founded here\u2014and a wealth of surviving monasteries provides a fascinating glimpse into French history and architecture. Many of the still extant monastic sights are well worth visiting, and represent Burgundy\u2019s main cultural attractions. The ruins of the\u00a0Ancienne Abbaye de Cluny<\/span>\u2014once the largest church in christendom\u2014give a glimpse of the power of this monastic order at its height, but the perfectly preserved church at\u00a0Paray-le-Monial<\/span> reveals the architectural style at its apex. Situated in an isolated valley halfway between Beaune and Chablis, the self-contained monastery of the\u00a0Abbaye de Fontenay<\/span> (nearest town: Marmagne) is remarkable for its completeness and tranquility. The pilgrimage church of\u00a0Ste-Madeleine <\/span>offers amazing views of the surrounding countryside from its location atop the picturesque, if touristy, hill town of V\u00e9zelay\u2014as well as housing the reputed relics of Mary Magdalene. A personal favorite is the little visited Cistercian Abbaye of\u00a0Pontigny<\/span>, north of Chablis, for it\u2019s tranquility and fine architecture.<\/p>\n

\"Pontigny\"<\/p>\n

\n
Sleeping Around<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

The entire region is well provided with rooms in all price categories. For luxury accommodations, look to hotels belonging to to the association\u00a0Ch\u00e2teaux & H\u00f4tels de France<\/span>(www.chateauxhotels.com<\/a>). For simpler, and very reasonably priced, hotels, as well as restaurants with reliably good regional food, look to the inns belonging to the\u00a0Logis de France<\/span>(www.logis-de-france.fr<\/a>). In Beaune,\u00a0Le Cep <\/span>(27 Rue Maufoux; +03\/8022-3548) offers the towns most luxurious lodgings; the\u00a0Hotel Du Poste <\/span>(5, Boulevard Cl\u00e9menceau; +03\/8022-08 11; fax +03\/8024-1971;\u00a0www.hoteldelapostebeaune.com<\/a>) and the\u00a0Blue Marine <\/span>(10-12 Boulevard Mar\u00e9chal-Foch; +03\/8024-0101) are also excellent full-service hotels. For a less expensive alternative, the\u00a0Hotel Belle Epoque<\/span> (15 Rue du Faubourg Bretonni\u00e8re; +03\/8024-6615; fax +03\/8024-1749) offers very pleasant rooms in the town center, while the\u00a0H\u00f4tel Grillon<\/span> (21 Route de Seurre, east; +03\/8022-4425; fax +03\/8024-9489) offers comfortable, bargiany rooms, a good restaurant and a rural ambiance, a few kilometers from the city center. In Chablis, theHostellerie des Clos<\/span> (see above) offers pleasant and inexpensive rooms in the former convent that houses their luxury restaurant. Nearby, in the picturesque and tiny village of Cravant,L\u2019Hostellerie Saint-Pierre<\/span> (5 Rue de l\u2019\u00c9glise; +03\/8642-3167;\u00a0www.hotels-tradition.com\/saintpierre\/<\/a>)\u2014owned and run by a gay couple\u2014offers tasteful, comfortable rooms and a friendly welcome to gay visitors. Some hotels close during the winter months, and all will be at their busiest in August, and during the wine festivals in November.<\/p>\n

Getting there, getting around<\/strong><\/p>\n

You\u2019ll definitely need a car to explore the region. You can easily drive from Paris, or take the TGV (frequent connections from the Gare d\u2019 Lyon) to Dijon and pick up a car at the station. All the major companies are represented; expect to pay about $200 for one week. The area is well served by major French autoroutes, but it is most enjoyable to travel the smaller, scenic, departmental roads. All roads are in perfect repair and well sign-posted, though a Michelin road map is indispensable. Be aware that you can never drive fast enough for the locals\u2014let them pass!<\/p>\n

The (limited) gay scene<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

You may want to schedule a few days in Paris if it\u2019s nightlife you crave; if you can\u2019t wait, the best option is the Sunday night only gay disco at\u00a0L\u2019An-fer<\/span> (8 rue Marceau; +03\/8070-0369) in Dijon. Dijon, a university town, also has two gay bars:\u00a0Caveau de l\u2019univers <\/span>(47 Rue Berbisey; +03\/8030-9829) and\u00a0Le Phaune<\/span> (4 bis, Rue de Serrigny; +03\/8050-0169) as well as a gay sauna,\u00a0Le Relax<\/span> (97 Rue Berbisey; +03\/8030-1440). Auxerre, a mid-size, lively town 20 minutes from Chablis, also features a gay sauna,\u00a0Le KLS<\/span> (21 Avenue de la Tournelle, 03\/8642-7687).<\/p>\n

Resources<\/strong><\/p>\n

More information is available on the internet at from the\u00a0Burgundy Tourist Office<\/span>(www.burgundy-tourism.com<\/a>), the\u00a0Chablis Tourist Office<\/span> (www.chablis.net<\/a>) and theAssociation of Alsace, Burgundy and Champagne<\/span> (www.abcoffrance.net)<\/a>. Gay listings are available online from the\u00a0France Queer Resources Directory<\/span> (www.france.qrd.org<\/a>) and the gay magazine\u00a0T\u00eatu<\/span>, available throughout France, has excellent regional agendas. The\u00a0Burgundy<\/span>volume of the\u00a0Touring in Wine Country<\/span> series offers the most comprehensive English guide to the region\u2019s wineries and restaurants.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

Article and Photos by Clay Doyle {Published in <\/span>Out & About, October, 2002<\/span>}<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

One of France\u2019s most famous wine regions, Burgundy features a picture-postcard landscape of vineyards, forests, fields, canals, medieval towns, and Romanesque monasteries; charming country inns; and of course, delicious food and wine. Easily accessible from Paris\u2014and considerably less expensive than the French capital\u2014Burgundy is ideal for a relaxing holiday or a romantic getaway. The Red: … <\/p>\n

Continue reading “THE RED and THE WHITE: A food and wine tour of Burgundy”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,4],"tags":[26,44,64,71,77,92,93,104,109,116,136,162,181,229],"class_list":["post-166","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-articles","category-clay-doyle","tag-abbey-de-fontenay","tag-beaune","tag-chablis","tag-cheese","tag-cote-dor","tag-food","tag-france","tag-hostellerie-des-clos","tag-hotels","tag-kir","tag-mary-magdelene","tag-out-about","tag-romanesque","tag-wine"],"yoast_head":"\nTHE RED and THE WHITE: A food and wine tour of Burgundy - Anywhere But Here<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sunsetdrivestudio.com\/travel\/?p=166\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"THE RED and THE WHITE: A food and wine tour of Burgundy - Anywhere But Here\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"One of France\u2019s most famous wine regions, Burgundy features a picture-postcard landscape of vineyards, forests, fields, canals, medieval towns, and Romanesque monasteries; charming country inns; and of course, delicious food and wine. Easily accessible from Paris\u2014and considerably less expensive than the French capital\u2014Burgundy is ideal for a relaxing holiday or a romantic getaway. 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