{"id":40,"date":"2004-08-18T13:28:40","date_gmt":"2004-08-18T13:28:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/doylelogan.com\/anywherebuthere\/?p=40"},"modified":"2022-07-13T17:47:49","modified_gmt":"2022-07-13T17:47:49","slug":"paris-beaune-chablis-spring-2002","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sunsetdrivestudio.com\/travel\/?p=40","title":{"rendered":"Paris, Beaune, Chablis – Spring 2002"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

One of my many wine and food journeys through the French countryside, this time the Burgundy region, accompanied (as often) by Michael Logan. This trip produced the Bourgogne slideshow photographs and the short food and wine article for Out & About. What follows is a rather detailed account of the trip\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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25 May 2002 Aboard the Thalys to Paris<\/p>\n

Ah well, here I am once again racing towards Paris. I\u2019m a little tired, though I went to bed early, I didn\u2019t sleep well, waking up very early, and repeatedly. I guess I was just overly excited about the trip. So it\u2019s nice to be underway.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ve reached that part of the trip where the train goes really fast \u2014so we\u2019ll be in Paris in no time now; this trip I think is even faster than the last time I took it; I guess they just keep trimming the travel time bit by bit.<\/p>\n

And Paris… well, we must go to the Pompidou Centre, and the Palais de Tokyo exhibition space; There\u2019s that funny museum in a mansion in the 3rd that is supposed to be quite nice… not sure what else Logan wants to do… the Louvre no doubt \u2014we\u2019ll have to go late. And we must shoot some video of Paris… and with Logan doing his turning around \u2014perhaps at the Palais Royale. And I want to have some oysters. And some foie gras!<\/p>\n

Natalie Merchant and her band were in my car on the train from Paris…<\/p>\n

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25 May 2002 Paris<\/p>\n

1 am, so really, we\u2019re back early I suppose. Watched the Eurovision song contest in a little bar\/coffee shop in the Marais, with a small but enthusiastic gay crowd. Not as fun as in Amsterdam though. Latvia won… it was neck and neck with Malta. The most fun really was Slovenia \u2014with these drag queens. Well it was fun to watch \u2014and the interminable voting. Mad little \u201cfairy tale\u201d vignette films about Estonia between each song! Curious, but they grew on you and seemed rather fun by the end. Before that we had dinner at Balzar \u2014white asparagus (good, but I agree with Nathan, slightly over cooked) and steak tartare \u2014that could not be improved upon \u2014and frites \u2014the only thing they could do to make those better would be to serve more of them!! And I had a bite of Logan\u2019s delicious chocolate eclair \u2014the dessert of the day. We left the restaurant and it started to poor down rain \u2014almost out of a clear blue sky; so we caught a bus over to the Marais. It cleared up quickly; walking back to the hotel there\u2019s a big bright full moon and the city looks so beautiful.<\/p>\n

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26 May 2002 Paris<\/p>\n

Up late today… and all day, off and on rainstorms; so we went to the Pompidou Centre. There was a big surrealist show that was actually a bit overwhelming. Magritte, Dali, Max Ernst… I like the Magrittes, but a lot of the the rest just doesn\u2019t appeal to me. Maybe we should have gotten the audio tour… it was huge. The whole post-1960 floor of the main museum has been reinstalled \u2014and all my favorite works are gone! That was bit disappointing. I suppose they have to rotate things, but all-in-all I did not think the current selection was nearly as impressive… the collection does have to compete with the views over Paris \u2014and more people seemed to be looking out the windows than looking at the permanent collection. Of course the sky was beautiful \u2014very dramatic clouds in a changing sky. At one point the Sacre Cour looked like something from a fairy tale with a backdrop of fluffy clouds… we had a coffee and tart at Georges around tea time \u2014super expensive; and then there\u2019s the odd and aloof fashion-model staff…<\/p>\n

Dinner tonight at a new place \u2014the Table d\u2019 Aligre at the Place d\u2019Aligre (there\u2019s a famous covered food market there) in the 12th not far from the Bastille. A pleasantly unassuming place with really good food, and really inexpensive. Good cheap wines too. We had foie gras and this braised lamb with artichokes and olives \u2014it was delicious, especially the fat. I had an apple thing for dessert. The waiters were really nice and then when the one found out we were Americans he wanted to know about taking the train from New York to Montreal \u2014which oddly enough I happened to know something about; so I told Logan to tell him that it was really nice \u2014that\u2019s what I\u2019ve read anyway. Dinner for three with wine and the foie gras was 108 euro\u2019s \u2014a great deal, and very pleasant. We had a long walk back, now it\u2019s time for sleep.<\/p>\n

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27 May 2002 Paris<\/p>\n

… a day of doing very little. Slept much too late, but then we walked over to the Marais for a very late breakfast around noon. I had a cup of excellent tea (Marriage Bros.) and a croissant served by the cutest teen you can imagine! Afterwards we collected Brian and went over to the sixth, around Saint Sulpice. for some shopping. We had salads for lunch at an unremarkable but decent Bistro (ubiquitously named Bistro du Metro); We stopped in Saint Sulpice to look at the Delacroix\u2019s and the crumbling chapels. We watched some shirtless boys disassembling the market stalls. We dodged intermittent rain showers. We shopped… well Brian shopped and Logan and I looked. We walked back through the Luxembourg gardens. Logan and Brian went off together to go to a used record store (where Logan was picking up a Joni Mitchell etching he had bought on ebay!) and I walked back towards the hotel. I stopped in a church, St. Ettienne du Mont, a sort of pretty gothic\/renaissance hybrid begun by Francois I. Inside they have a tiny relic of St. Genevi\u00e8ve; they used to have her entire corpse, but the revolutionaries burned it and threw it in the river! I came back to the hotel, and Logan came back and we were going to go to the late hours at the Louvre… but we never made it. There was a tremendous rainstorm with thunder and a deluge… when it let up a bit we just walked down the street to have a glass of wine. We had dinner at nine at the Caveau de Palais, as Brian is quite fond of it. The food was quite OK, but we were seated upstairs and it was not so festive… really so much of the fun is a lively atmosphere and getting to see what everyone else is eating. That odd woman still rules the place with authority and the little dog still runs in and out. My cod was good, and brian had a quite wonderful whole fish, and it\u2019s not terribly expensive… just wish we had gotten a table downstairs. We strolled home after, and went to sleep…<\/p>\n

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27 May 2002 Paris<\/p>\n

Today quite active… we managed to get up at a reasonable hour and have our breakfast downstairs at 9:30. After breakfast we got on the metro and went to visit the Catacombs. I wanted to get us there before they closed for lunch \u2014but they\u2019ve changed the hours again, now they don\u2019t close for lunch but they don\u2019t open until eleven… so we had a twenty minute walk around the neighborhood–a nice market street lined with food shops and butchers and bakers and fishmongers. Not too many people in the catacombs \u2014one had a bit of a feeling of being all alone down there at times; It\u2019s quite large. Well, I had just been in September, but Logan and Brian had not been in a while. It\u2019s a pity they don\u2019t have a nice guide to explain everything though. Afterwards, Brian was hungry so I suggested we get back on the Metro line 4 and have Lunch at Deux Palais. We had a good lunch there \u2014it really is one of the best of these generic Bistros \u2014good frites, a decent roast chicken, Logan had a very good steak tartare and I had a delicious fresh strawberry tart. And we had a little pot of beaujolais. And the place was all full of smartly dressed Parisians from the Palais du Justice.<\/p>\n

After lunch, Brian went to rest and Logan and I went to check out the new exhibition space in the Palais du Tokyo. It\u2019s a cool space \u2014this big 30\u2019s style Neoclassical\/fascist architecture \u2014the interior of the new space has been stripped back to the framework. But it\u2019s all so hip… like it\u2019s been turned over to hipster teens and they\u2019ve run amok. A huge space with really just a few highly over-conceptualized pieces of art… Outside, in front of an arcade of impossibly tall square pillars, three French teens attempted tricks on skateboards \u2014they seemed so much like they should have been a piece of installation art. And in the other half of the building, the more conventional old modern art museum (of the City of Paris) goes to the other extreme \u2014way too staid and dull (they do have good temporary exhibits here \u2014it\u2019s where we saw Douglas Gordon several years ago \u2014but the temporary exhibition space was closed for installation.)<\/p>\n

Now, resting before a drink, and dinner at La Villeret. All day today it\u2019s been gray and raining, or drizzling. No dramatic downpours but no bits of blue sky or dramatic cloudscapes either. And rather chilly for the time of year…<\/p>\n

Later…<\/p>\n

Had a delicious dinner at La Villeret. We set out early and stopped at that attractively modern little AOC wine bar where I had tea the day before. We had a couple glasses of wine \u2014very economical, Chinon 3 Euro\u2019s a glass; the same cute boy was there, and a very nice woman. We sat and chatted and drank our wine and watched the gay boys rendezvousing, while it poured down rain outside. Eventually we paid up and went to catch the (very crowded) 96 bus to dinner. At 8:20, we were among the first to arrive at La Villeret. Of course it filled up completely as we sat there and ate. For starters: Logan had a concoction of cold lentils with bits of lamb tongue and foie gras on top \u2014it was really delicious; Brian had the white asparagus \u2014cooked the way I like, with a bit of rigidity, and served with a delicious vinaigrette and a slab of lardons. I thought mine was least successful, a sort of a crab salad, with pastry and wild asparagus. But it did have lots of crab. My main course though, was the best I think \u2014a big hunk of braised pork shank with the most incredibly delicious honey glazed skin and honey sauce. Mr. Logan had a beautiful hunk of fish and Brian had veal liver. For dessert I had pan fried fresh cherries with some ice cream \u2014delicious; and Logan had rhubarb with a blanc mange. We drank a bottle of 96 Savignier from the Loire. Dinner was first rate, and really a bargain (130 for three) for such elaborate preparations; It was the fanciest meal we\u2019ve had so far this trip, even though the room and all is quite casual and neighborhoody. After dinner we took a leisurely stroll back to the Marais \u2014it had cleared up for the moment \u2014and sat at the Open Cafe and had a couple of drinks and watched the boys go by. The best of the lot was our super-cute waiter, Cyril. Finally we decided to walk back to the hotel \u2014just as it started to rain again!<\/p>\n

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29 May 2002 Paris<\/p>\n

Today we managed to get up and down to breakfast before 10 again! After breakfast, Logan and I headed over to the Musee d\u2019 Orsay. There was a special Mondrian exhibition \u2014his painting before his trademark abstract style \u2014that we wanted to see. It wasn\u2019t crowded \u2014no lines or delay to get in, and though there were a lot of people at the Mondrian exhibition, it wasn\u2019t unpleasantly crowded at all. The museum is in the midst of some sort of renovation, so a number of galleries were closed, and most of the big academic paintings were off view \u2014no loss really, except for Jesus and the Nelly Apostles. We looked at the kitchy \u2014but fun \u2014sculptures in the center, and of course went up to the rooms on the top to see our favorite impressionists. I hope they re-hang the whole museum once the renovations are done \u2014there are too many fabulous little paintings stuck away in tiny, grim rooms. After, we walked along the Seine, heading for the Marais, and lunch with Brian. It was a nice day, perhaps slightly cool, but dry, with clouds that were purely decorative. We stopped at the Bouquiniste Alain Huchet \u2014fortunately, one of the few bouquiniste open today \u2014so Logan could look for a cookbook birthday present for June. He found something in short order \u2014we barely spent anytime browsing; just as well I suppose, as I really didn\u2019t need to buy anything! We met Brian back at the AOC Cafe, so we could have these delicious looking club sandwiches that we saw people eating the night before. They were good; the cute boy was there again; I think he is a member of the family that owns it. After that we went shopping \u2014the Camper store for new shoes, the Chaise Longue just to look at silly things, and the FNAC record store at the Bastille (with a stop at the place de Vosges, just for fun). Now we\u2019re resting up in our room and listening to a Marianne Faithfull album (her new one, released only in Europe) on the iBook cd player, before we go out to a trendy restaurant for dinner.<\/p>\n

Later…<\/p>\n

Dinner at Salon d\u2019 Helene… the little downstairs place of Helene Darroze, chef-of-the-moment in Paris. Actually the bistro \u2014well not really a bistro \u2014is very successful; a small, elegantly modern room, spacious and comfortable, serving little tapas-like plates of things. The food\u2019s a little bit French and a whole lot \u201cchef\u201d. The service is friendly and casual \u2014the whole little room attended by one cute girl and one cute boy. (after you get through the entrance that is, shared with the upstairs restaurant, where a boy in a little cap opens the door for you and a man behind a big desk checks your name off a computerized reservation list! Anyway, the food was interesting and complicated, and fortunately also delicious. We had seven little plates to share, which they brought round in two groupings; then a round of 3 very interesting cheeses, then dessert. Let\u2019s see, first there was a soup with asparagus and foie gras with bacon on top; fava beans with black truffle and foie gras ice-cream(!); and a piece of almost raw salmon with couscous. Then we got a little pot of sweetbreads; a big piece of pork lard with roasted potatoes and girolle mushrooms; a plate of shredded oxtail; and a big lump of roasted foie gras. Then a spanish cheese, a soft cheese and a roquefort. My dessert was ille flotant–a very tasty and light meringue floating in a soup of summer red fruits \u2014no creme anglais \u2014very tasty; and Logan had a really chocolatey millefiulle. Dinner was nice \u2014lots of eating but all so small that I don\u2019t feel at all bloated; and while you wouldn\u2019t call it cheap, it wasn\u2019t too expensive \u2014considering Logan ordered a bottle of champagne as soon as he sat down, and at \u20ac 70 it was a third of our bill! There were a lot of less expensive wines to chose from, so I think you could eat there for 50-60 euros a person \u2014a good deal for a really fancy place. I took a copy of the menu \u2014it changes monthly with a daily special.<\/p>\n

We were going to go to the Eiffel Tower after dinner \u2014but of course dinner went on a bit too late. The weather was nice, so it would have been a good night. I\u2019ve been going to go the last few times I was here… and just haven\u2019t made it.<\/p>\n

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30 May 2002 Beaune<\/p>\n

Our first day in the countryside and, of course, today was all about gorging ourselves! We\u2019ve had two cheese courses today! Oh those country meals.<\/p>\n

Getting here was pleasantly uncomplicated. We caught a bus just steps from the Agora St. Germain, which took us to the Gare de Lyon. We caught our TGV train and rode a little over an hour and a half \u2014through incredibly picturesque countryside \u2014to the station in Dijon. At the tiny Avis office at the train station, everything was arranged and it took about 30 seconds to get our car \u2014a really nice VW Golf. Avis is so nice to deal with. We drove straight out of Dijon and about halfway to Beaune on the N road. I had scoped out a place for lunch the night before in the Routard Guide, in case we were hungry \u2014and of course we were. This place was in a tiny village outside of Nuits-Saint-Georges, the Auberge du Coteau in the tiny village of Villars-Fontaine. All the meats are cooked over a wood fire in a fireplace at one end of the dining room (a bit like in the Vosges). Logan had wood-grilled lamb and I had wood-grilled beef. There was homemade terrine, and our first of many \u201cJambon Persille\u201d to start. Then they left the huge groaning cheese board at our table. Very tasty, and a fine introduction to the Cotes d\u2019Or.<\/p>\n

It was a quick, and very scenic, drive into Beaune. We circled the town looking for the \u201cHotel de la Poste\u201d and pulled up in front of this very glamourous establishment. The Logan got out his confirmation, and realized we weren\u2019t staying at the Hotel de la Poste (rejected as part of our austerity plan) but at the Hotel de France. So we drove on, and found it \u2014a much more basic sort of Logis across from the Beaune train station.<\/p>\n

Beaune is still a fairly small town; the historic center enclosed by mostly surviving ramparts. We were just a block outside the center. We took a late afternoon stroll into town to check out the sights. There\u2019s some pretty little squares (one with a miniature carrousel), a nice shopping street, the very famous Hotel Dieu \u2014the medieval hospital \u2014which we decided to visit later. We did stop into the Coll\u00e9giale Notre-Dame, a crusty old (mostly) Romanesque church. And we scoped out various restaurants \u2014one very beautiful place, all the tables set up in the garden of a villa. This is the Jardin de Remparts, which has an excellent reputation, and undoubtedly the prettiest location in Beaune; sadly it was already \u2018complet\u2019 during the weekend of our visit. After our exploration of the city, we stopped at a little outdoor cafe and had a kir. The kir is especially good \u2014really good cassis made locally in Bourgonge, and proper Bourgonge Aligote wine. The weather was especially nice and summery as well.<\/p>\n

We did find the Americans in Beaune! After being so conspicuously absent in Amsterdam, and even in Paris, Beaune was positively swarming with Americans. (On the other hand, Chablis, we would discover later, was all Brits and Australians. And in the historical sites, the Abbeys and Churches, the few visitors tended to be Germans.)<\/p>\n

Because the weather was so pleasant in the evening, I really wanted to eat outside. All the terrace restaurants seemed rather touristy, unfortunately, but we did find one, La Grilladine, that despite being full of Americans, seemed nice. It had a nice looking menu, a good wine list, a Bottin Gourmand recommendation, and a pretty interior where some locals were eating. We got a very pleasant outdoor table, and it turned out the food was very good \u2014and we had what turned out to be our favorite bottle of burgundy on the trip \u2014a Fixin. I had a tasty boeuf bourguignon and the jambon persille to start; I\u2019m afraid I don\u2019t recall what Logan ate (probably foie gras!). It was really nice on the terrace, and entertaining as well. The Americans were typically loud and demanding, and the several waiters were young, and obviously new summer help. Well they were quite unbothered by it all, but the headwaiter was in a tizzy; he was this very \u2018Basil Fawlty\u2019 sort of character caught between the demands of the patrons and the inexperience of his staff. One thought he might at some point simply explode!<\/p>\n

There\u2019s not much happening in Beaune after dinner, so we returned to our room overlooking the train station. Now there\u2019s no passenger service in Beaune after about 11pm \u2014but apparently it sits on the main freight line between Paris and Geneva! About every 20 minutes a huge freight train would roar past the station. Strangely though, the noise didn\u2019t really bother me.<\/p>\n

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31 May 2002 Beaune<\/p>\n

Mr. Logan has picked out some far-flung sites for us to visit today. They don\u2019t seem so far-flung on the map, but actually driving to them you feel the distance. We\u2019re heading to the Southernmost part of Burgundy \u2014 almost into the Beaujolais, north of Lyon. All along the N road, (the main roadway, but still only one lane in each direction most of the route) there are the most stylishly grisly highway markers. They are life-sized black and red metal cutouts depicting a stylized, but very recognizable, dead person! There is a marker placed at every point on the road where someone has been killed! And there are, I must say, quite a lot of them. Most chilling are the little groups where 3 or 4 people have died together. Well, I told Logan. at least if we get killed driving this road, we will get little markers to commemorate the event. Perhaps they would even append a little sign: \u201cAmerican Rufuses\u201d. And the way people drive it is no wonder so many die on the highway \u2014they go so fast on these narrow, curving roads. I cannot drive fast enough for the locals, and then someone is tailgating at high speed; I frantically try to find a place to pull over so they can get past. Fortunately there is not a whole lot of traffic, and one often has the road to oneself for a while.<\/p>\n

Our first stop is Paray-le-Monial, the most perfectly preserved of the Cluny monastic churches. It is a sober Romanesque church, said to be a smaller version of the great church at Cluny, now destroyed. The church sits facing the river and is quite impressive. There is also quite a nice garden behind. The church\u2019s main claim to religious fame is that it is here that the cult and the doctrine of the \u201cSacred Heart of Jesus\u201d originated. I don\u2019t think I understand the Sacred Heart well enough to try to explain it… but apparently at some point in the middle ages a young nun at the convent down the street saw a vision of Jesus with a flaming heart on the outside of his chest (we also visited the little chapel where she had her vision.) This seems to have been thoroughly (and perhaps rightly) ignored until the 19th century, when in a frenzy of religious ferver it was revived, and formalized by the Vatican, and Paray-le-Monial became a pilgrimage site. Anyway, out in the garden there is this pavilion which tells the story of the visionary nun in an endless series of narrated dioramas. We started to watch, but it just went on and on, and we were shortly defeated. There was also a nice street market in town that day, and we bought a little pastry to eat.<\/p>\n

From Paray-le Monial we had a short, but circuitous drive to Cluny \u2014the seat of the once-powerful Cluniac Monastic Order \u2014to see the remains of the great church. It was at one time the largest church in Christendom, but it was demolished during the Revolution, and really there is not much left. From the excavated foundations, and one remaining chapel, you can get an idea of the size… they sell you a ticket which entitles you to a tour, but we discovered that most of what is interesting to see you can see for free. The admission doesn\u2019t get you much. The town itself is somewhat interesting; We climbed to the top of the cheese tower (no idea why it\u2019s called that) for the panorama, and we visited the little town church, which was very cute and crusty.<\/p>\n

From there we next stopped at the little medieval town of Tournus to see yet another Abbaye Church. The Abbaye de St. Philibert is one of the oldest romanesque churches in Burgundy. It\u2019s a fortified structure with great thick round pillars and not many windows. There was a pretty little courtyard, and (I later read) another chapel above the gloomy narthex, which we missed. Also in the town is a preserved (or restored) medieval pharmacy, but after not finding it following a cursory stroll through the town, we gave up and headed back to Beaune. With all the driving added in it had been a long day. The scenery however \u2014forests, vineyards, cows, canals, little stone villages \u2014was beautiful.<\/p>\n

Later…<\/p>\n

We had dinner at B\u00e9naton, a little chef-run place that is reputed to be one of Beaune\u2019s best. It\u2019s a small dining room, and though there is a nice garden at back, all seating was indoors. fortunately we got the table by the door, as it was quite warm. The food was good, with an amuse bouche, starter, main course, cheese and dessert. Sadly, I didn\u2019t write down what we had, and now I can\u2019t remember! It was on the other side of town (by the hotel de la poste) so we had a leisurely walk through the deserted town after dinner.<\/p>\n

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1 June 2002 Beaune<\/p>\n

Today we are up for a morning visit to Autun, to see another 12th century church. We went to see the Cathedrale St. Lazare, famous for its stone carvings by Gislebertus. There\u2019s a big last judgment over the door, and lots of smaller scenes on the capitols \u2014Adam and Eve, things like that, all very stylishly, almost modernly, realized. We had lunch in a fancy hotel nearby \u2014I had us seated on the terrace, as it was a very sunny day, but I roasted poor Mr. Logan. They didn\u2019t have an umbrella for us, as this French family at the next table was hogging two. Despite the lack of umbrella, it was a nice lunch \u2014we had just a main course and dessert \u2014but again, I don\u2019t really remember what we ate. Afterwards, we had a rather exhausting hike around the old ramparts \u2014but never quite getting on the top of them, which was our intention. Then we drove to see the old Roman city gate and the remains of the Roman Amphitheater. As a Roman City in the first century, the population of Autun was four times what it is today. After that, we hurried back to Beaune, because we still had our sightseeing to do there. We took this tasting tour of the Cellars of the hotel Dieu \u2014very touristy really, but also sort of fun \u2014there are like 14 different wines to taste, all down in this refreshingly cold and dark cellar. And then you can buy things, but of course we couldn\u2019t because there was no way to take them home! Then we visited the Hotel Dieu itself \u2014The most famous sight in Burgundy, and really it is very beautiful. The courtyard is surrounded by restored medieval buildings, with those famous brightly-colored-patterned tile roofs.<\/p>\n

Later…<\/p>\n

It\u2019s 11:30 pm here at the Hotel de France, across from the rail station in Beaune. It\u2019s a funny hotel \u2014in many way a quintessential Logis de France. Everyone is super friendly \u2014a typical family owned hotel.<\/p>\n

So for my food and wine of Burgundy article… aperitifs: Kir, which is really good here in its region of origin and the Cremant du Bourgonge, a cheap, but very refreshing sparkling wine. The best food of the region, I think, is the simple, basic sort of country food… the Jambon Persille; the escargot (but how on earth did they first think to eat them?!); the meats grilled over a wood fire or the classic braised dishes of boeuf bourguignon or coq au vin. Plenty of nice cheese too… and of course the red burgundies are a delight.<\/p>\n

The scenery is wonderful… lots of forests, and rolling hillsides covered with vines… and everywhere tiny herds of white cows \u2014the famous charolais beef (dare I say though, that I prefer the chianini beef of tuscany?). But driving along the tiny roads is really beautiful \u2014it\u2019s a prettier landscape even than the Loire, I think, and seems somehow more remote. That is except for Beaune \u2014Beaune is overrun with tourists. All the American Rufuses who are not in Amsterdam and not even in Paris, seem to be here in Beaune \u2014along with a fair number of German tourists as well. Actually, when you get out of Beaune, and visit the other towns \u2014places more famous for history and architecture than wine \u2014then there are no more Americans, and all the tourists are German! But really, nothing is very crowded…<\/p>\n

… so back to our silly hotel… when Logan made the reservation, they said we had to take one dinner at the hotel, so he booked us here for Saturday night. Well fine… and we went down to dinner tonight around eight \u2014and they had totally forgotten about us as they had booked a tour group of 45 persons into the restaurant! I thought this was very silly \u2014so they were going to put us all alone in this sort of annex room, which seemed very depressing, but we got them to put us at one of the tables for the bar that sit out on the sidewalk facing the train station. That was perfect, the weather was quite warm, no breeze, a beautiful sunset \u2014so really it couldn\u2019t have worked out better. And the man running the place, and his teen son, were both really nice and really friendly. We had a very simple regional meal–snails and the jambon (delicious); a sort of flank cut of the charolais beef (inoffensive but unimpressive); a big-ass assortment of local cheese, and some cassis ice-cream. We drank a nice cote de nuits 96 burgundy; and I had a glass of marc de Bourgonge after dinner. The owner even gave me a cigarette to have with it. We watched the bus group arrive (it was dinner stop on a trip from Paris to the south of France) and we watched the people come and go from the train station. It was quite nice actually \u2014much better than eating in the slightly stuffy, climatisee, dining room.<\/p>\n

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2 June 2002 From Beaune to Chablis<\/p>\n

We left our hotel in Beaune and arrived in Chablis a bit after five. It\u2019s a longer drive than one might think \u2014although our trip today included plenty of rufusing. The first 90 minutes involved finding and visiting a ruined Abbey (Saint Margaritte) outside the town of Builland, not far really from Beaune itself. We got a bit lost finding the town, and then finding the Abbey ruins involved a bit of detective work \u2014they are not marked by any sign, or monument marker, which is a bit unusual. We saw a picture at our hotel, and I wanted to visit. So we found them eventually (they are indicated, vaguely, on our Michelin map) up a very narrow, dead-end road above the town. It\u2019s a nice ruin, the substantial remains of a small gothic church, and other buildings \u2014but you can\u2019t get too close. The ruins are privately owned and surrounded by a double fence of barbed wire. They are quite isolated, but we were not alone \u2014there was also a family of German hikers and a bicycle tour. There was even a little parking lot, so one assumes there must have been signs to it at one time \u2014though we were the only car to come up the tiny road. Fortunately! The drive from Beaune to there, and then on to where we picked up the bigger road to Chablis, took us through a forest, which was really pretty. Forests, fields of wildflowers, white cows in little pastures, some rugged stone cliffs, tiny villages \u2014and all very peaceful. Very few other cars, and all quite sleepy \u2014well it was Sunday, and everything in the villages was closed up, of course.<\/p>\n

We made it to the bigger road, which was also quite scenic, and where we quite sped along, between the villages. We were heading to the Abbaye de Fontenay \u2014a sight Logan picked out \u2014halfway between Beaune and Chablis. Around 1pm though, I started to get hungry \u2014and the towns we were passing through seemed so small as to not really have any restaurants. Logan checked the Routard and found a highly regarded place in the town nearest the Abbaye: Mirrabelles, in St. Remy next to Montbard. We located the restaurant without too much trouble \u2014and it was complet! Well it was Sunday lunch after all, but it must be very good; it\u2019s quite an out of the way spot \u2014even for the town of Montbard. Well, we went into the town center and had lunch at L\u2019Ecu, the Logis in town. It was ok, nothing special, and a little pricey. We did get to sit on a nice shaded terrace, and at least we didn\u2019t starve. (Good thing we did not wait and try to eat at the Abbaye \u2014it\u2019s totally isolated and the only food there is in three vending machines!). Anyway we drove into the isolated valley and found the Abbaye. It is the oldest surviving Cistercian Abbaye. (The Cistercian order was founded by monks who found the Cluny order too luxurious. Those kooky monks.) It has all been recently restored, and is quite an intact complex from the late romanesque\/early gothic period. An impressive and somber romanesque church, a beautiful cloister, gothic chapter house and scriptorium, a dormitory with a ships hull wooden roof, and a huge 13th century gothic forge \u2014almost as big as the church. Apparently it was the first iron works with a waterwheel for power; water was also diverted for fountains on the monastery grounds. It\u2019s all quite pretty; smaller in scale than some of the other abbayes we\u2019ve visited, and very peaceful. A few busloads of tourists, but they were sort of easy to ignore.<\/p>\n

A lot of the way, we drove along the canal du Burgundy \u2014it\u2019s long, and very tranquil \u2014with lock houses, and with boys diving and swimming from the banks or the bridges. After Fontenay, we drove on to Chablis, a cute little town with a gothic church towering over the center. Haven\u2019t really explored yet, just arrived at the hotel and decided to rest a bit.<\/p>\n

Later… in Chablis<\/p>\n

Here we are in our little room in a cute fancied-up hotel in Chablis, the Hostellerie dus Clos. The room is cute but tiny; it looks out on a nice little courtyard, where I may go to continue typing in a bit. It is supposed to have the best restaurant in Chablis, so we will see. I am a bit hot and tired from driving all day.<\/p>\n

And Later Still…<\/p>\n

So we had dinner at our hotel tonight \u2014at the world’s fanciest Logis! Well actually the rooms aren\u2019t that fancy at all, but the lobby\/restaurant is totally over the top. And all kinds of waiters and waitresses in fancy dress running about \u2014in stark contrast to the poorly dressed Brits, and even the casually attired French patrons. Anyway we had aperitifs in the courtyard, dinner in the fancy dining room and our after dinner infusion du maison in the \u201csalon\u201d, in big wingchairs. Dinner was delicious \u2014fairly inexpensive ingredients, but very well \u2014and elaborately \u2014prepared. Only mini-pricey at 49 euros each \u2014and with a good Chablis for 20 Euros. They have a lot of reasonably priced Chablis \u2014and some very expensive ones for the rich foreigners, I\u2019m sure. Anyway, we had a little amuse bouche of cold tomato soup with a bit of shrimp in it \u2014I ate Logan\u2019s as well; Then a salad of little white asparagus, wild asparagus, and (mostly) little mushrooms in a delicious sauce. Then I had a pike fish mouse with crayfish and crayfish sauce, and they made a delicious piece of grilled sander for Mr. Logan. Then we had veal kidneys(!) in a Chablis sauce \u2014three little slices really, in a sauce that was just perfect for them. Then an assortment of local cheeses. We drank a 1998 La Chablissiene Vielles Vignes \u2014the sommelier recommended it; he wouldn\u2019t let Logan order the one he had picked out that cost twice as much \u2014he said this one was much better. I thought it was good \u2014but then what do I know. For dessert we had some strawberries, very fresh, very delicious, with some little syrup and a croustillant. Then our infusion de la maison \u2014with vervienne in it and the usual plate of very tasty little sweets. We took a short walk around the deserted town after dinner, and now we are resting in our suite… there are lots of really big mosquitos out in the town… so I\u2019m a bit apprehensive. The room is not climatisee, so we have to leave the window open \u2014it\u2019s quite warm tonight.<\/p>\n

and one more thing…<\/p>\n

Cloches! The main courses arrived covered with silver cloches, which were whipped off in unison. Lots and lots of staff actually \u2014and we didn\u2019t even see into the kitchen. In the morning we have the true test \u2014the breakfast!<\/p>\n

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3 June 2002 Chablis<\/p>\n

I will mention the excellent breakfast at the hotel. They actually set up early this morning to serve it in the courtyard \u2014I could hear them through the window \u2014but then it started to rain and they had to move everything inside. It was a very good country in breakfast \u2014lots of tasty pastries; good bread for toast; jams and honey in little crocks; good yogurt in glass jars, some dried fruits, and oddly, a custard. Tasty. The inn is a bit of an odd hybrid: the rooms, and the breakfast, seem like a really good Logis; but the lobby, and the staff and restaurant are like a Leading Hotel of the World. It would almost be stuffy, except there are enough people working here who are obviously summer help \u2014less than perfect and sort of amused by what they\u2019re doing; it helps take the edge off. And the food is really good, and the prices not excessive for the quality of the food \u2014and the rooms are not expensive. It could use more French people though \u2014there is far too much English being spoken; lots of Australians and Brits. It does have a big elevator, and the whole place is wheelchair accessible \u2014a real rarity among country inns \u2014so there are a number of guests in wheelchairs, living it up, which is a nice touch, and probably worth mentioning in an article.<\/p>\n

A trip to Mr. Bricolage!<\/p>\n

We asked the woman at the desk about having our laundry done and she directed Mr. Logan to this \u201cPressing\u201d in a mall outside of Auxerre \u2014at the \u201cGeant\u201d. Well, I knew by the time we were halfway there that it was too far to leave our laundry \u2014when would we get back to pick it up, next year? But we sort of followed through anyway, and found this sort of mall on the ring road around Auxerre and went into this huge K-Mart sort of store \u2014very American, except for the French-speaking \u2014and inquired about an electrical adapter to replace the one I left in Beaune. they didn\u2019t have one, but the cute boy (yet another one) consulted with someone and told us to go across the road \u2014to Mr. Bricolage. Just like in America, though we could see it across the street, it was impossible to walk to; we had to get in the car and drive there! It\u2019s a big Home-Depot like store, and they did indeed have just what we needed; Mr. Logan loved the place, and I had to talk him out of buying pricey European light bulbs to take home! After we left Mr. Bricolage, we realized we should have just bought new t-shirts at the Geant \u2014easier and probably cheaper than the laundry \u2014but we didn\u2019t drive back to do it. Instead we set off on the day\u2019s sightseeing.<\/p>\n

And on to the relics of Mary Magdelene…<\/p>\n

After we left Mr. Bricolage, we drove south to V\u00e9zelay, an old monastery church and hilltop village. It was a very important pilgrimage site in the middle ages \u2014they have a reliquary in the crypt with the bones of Mary Magdelene! We got to see them. The church is large and very handsome \u2014rather light inside for a romanesque church, and very austere except for very nice capitols on the pillars carved with flowers, bible scenes and religious legends. On has to hike up this long, slightly steep main street \u2014lined with galleries selling ugly paintings, and lots of restaurants \u2014to the church. The monastery buildings were mostly pulled down, leaving the church surrounded by a large park with amazing views down on the surrounding countryside and other little villages. There were surprisingly few other visitors, and we had the place mostly to ourselves. It had been sprinkling or threatening rain on the drive down, but when we left the church the clouds had dispersed and it became a sunny, and very warm, day.<\/p>\n

From V\u00e9zelay we drove about 15 km to the town of Avallon \u2014an old fortified town with a funny old romanesque church \u2014the nave descended in steps so it was on about four different levels. the town also had an old clock tower, and the old ramparts. Driving back to Auxerre to visit the Cathedral there, we stopped in a really cute little town called Cravant. We stopped because it just looked so picturesque from the side of the road \u2014there was a stone gate leading into town. Just a little place with tiny alleys \u2014petit rues \u2014running behind the houses, and a pretty little gothic church with fabulous gargoyles, that was all locked up (there was a sign directing visitors to someone\u2019s house to get the key, but we didn\u2019t bother.) There was also this mad enclosed pool fed by a fountain from a nearby stream \u2014no explanation as to the purpose at all \u2014but it looked like some sort of healing waters (at least I\u2019d like to think so); it was enclosed, so not really decorative, but didn\u2019t really seem functional either. Logan suggested it was for watering livestock, but I pointed out that it would be rather difficult to get them in through the rather small doors! (It was and old public wash-house of course \u2014there was one in Chablis as well, we later found.)<\/p>\n

From there we drove on to Auxerre \u2014it\u2019s a rather large town or a small city. You even have to pay for parking, though it\u2019s quite cheap. And it was lively after the other places we\u2019d been \u2014lots of young people, students racing around on motorbikes and having drinks in cafes. It had a big old gothic church, Cathedrale St. Etienne \u2014quite tall, with impressive windows, and below, a romanesque crypt, leftover from the previous church, with some old frescoes still extant. The old part of town has some narrow lanes with half timbered houses; It\u2019s built on a hill and the river runs along the edge of the old city (now the modern city sprawls across both sides of the river). There are a couple of other large churches as well, which we did not visit. And the city has a long shopping street (in addition to all the mega-stores on the outskirts), but apparently the shops in this region of France are all traditionally closed on Monday.<\/p>\n

We didn\u2019t have dinner at the hotel tonight, but we had aperitifs and then afters \u2014I had their excellent infusion maison, and Logan had this mad bright green mint liqueur called Gat 27. A bit like scope on ice. We had dinner at a place down the street called Bistro de Grand Crus, a simple little place which was fine but not amazing, and not so busy on a Monday night. We probably should have driven out of town to a little country inn \u2014there was one that sounded really good in Logan\u2019s wine book \u2014but I didn\u2019t really want to drive anymore; most of the other places in Chablis were closed on Monday night. Logan did have the Jambon de Morvan \u2014a sort of prosciutto-like ham, but served in thick slices. I had some white asparagus, and then a cuisse de canard and Logan had a nice piece of white fish. It was all fine. Pretty cheap too, except for the \u20ac30 bottle of Chablis.<\/p>\n

Had a long walk around the totally deserted and shut-up town, our after-dinner infusion and drink at the hotel, and now to sleep. We have dinner here at the hotel tomorrow \u2014I\u2019m planning an easy day of looking around the town and then driving a route of nearby wine villages.<\/p>\n

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4 June 2002 Chablis<\/p>\n

We had lunch today in this terrific little restaurant \u2014a tiny place we just happened on. Actually it was mentioned in Logan\u2019s wine book, but it didn\u2019t make it sound like much. It\u2019s one of those discoveries that one makes in the French country side that is just a very happy accident. It\u2019s Le St. Bris, in the little village of St. Bris Le Vineux. The owner of the place is Jean Francois Pouillot, and he works mostly alone in his small restaurant. When we arrived for lunch, at about 1:45, there was just one table occupied; he emerged from the kitchen and gave us a warm welcome, seated us at a little table, and got us a half bottle of the local white burgundy from nearby Chitry. We ordered just the simple plate of the day, a grilled Andouillettes de Troyes; with an apple rhubarb tart for dessert. There were several very delicious sounding menus written on little chalkboards \u2014but they were all four and five courses, and we really wanted a small lunch. Apparently M. Pouillot decided we had to have a starter anyway, so we brought us a little crock of 6 escargots to share. They were delicious, in garlic, butter and parsley. Then our plates with beautiful white andouilletes \u2014usually not my favorite I must confess, though they are a specialty of this region \u2014and it was delicious (just the slightest suggestion of that innardy smell that is sometimes so overpowering). They were flavorful and tripey but not at all gross. I hope I\u2019m not damning with faint praise here \u2014but it was good and nicely presented on a plate with a few little vegetables. Then we got two huge slices of the apple rhubarb tart \u2014the rhubarb green and crisp, finely chopped and mixed with a bit of custard. After that, coffee and some special little chocolates and biscuits from the bakery in the town. All the time the owner would come out to chat (in French of course) and ask questions of us; he told Logan that he prefers to work alone; he feeds 10 to 15 people at lunch and at dinner, and he likes to be able to interact with the diners, and do everything himself. I wish we had found it earlier in the trip, as I would like to go and have his huge groaning multi-course meal. I\u2019m sure it\u2019s fabulous. On the menu outside it said \u201ca true cuisine de chef still exists\u201d \u2014his motto for the place. I just think it is great \u2014a real find, and a place to look forward to returning \u2014delicious, personal, interesting and inexpensive. I get much more excited about a place like this than about the very fancy place at our hotel \u2014even though the food is indisputably terrific, it has been featured in bunch of magazines even.<\/p>\n

If St. Bris is full, or a large group comes by, he sends them to the Auberge des Tilleuls in Vincelottes. We actually stopped there first for lunch (this is the place I had thought about going for dinner the night before), but decided that all the set menus seemed too large for what we wanted… but it\u2019s good, regional cooking, and a beautiful terrace, tented, on the waterfront along the tranquil river Yonne. Very pretty, and it\u2019s a Logis as well. Still I\u2019m glad we moved on to Le St. Bris \u2014it\u2019s a special place.<\/p>\n

We explored Chablis on foot in the morning. It has a pretty little riverfront promenade, with a few little parks, a swim pool that is filled from the river in the summer months, An old riverside washing house, some mills \u2014one of which is of course a restaurant. We tried to go in the pretty \u2014and from a distance, imposing \u2014little gothic church, but it is in the midst of a re-roofing, and it was all locked up. We visited the town cemetery as well \u2014another old church, but likewise locked up. The rest of the day we spent driving around the nearby wine towns \u2014just cute, very little towns \u2014with interesting old churches, all of which were locked up. And we drove by the cremant caveau of Bailly, and we had our fabulous little lunch in St. Bris, and saw an old Templar church (the oldest church in the l\u2019yonne) in Fontenay des Chablis. The highlight of the days sightseeing though was Potigny \u2014where there is an old, very handsome Cistercian Abbey. Very little visited, compared with the more famous abbeys, but really worth it \u2014large and imposing, beautiful light inside; we bought a little guide in the shop to tell us all about it. I think the best thing though is being able to appreciate it in complete tranquility. During most of our visit we were all alone.<\/p>\n

Back in town we stopped at the caves of the Chablis wine growing commune, La Chablissiene. Logan bought 6 bottles of wine \u2014which we are lugging now; I wanted to have some shipped to Amsterdam; but apparently they can\u2019t ship outside of France. There are good things, very inexpensive, and shipping within France doesn\u2019t amount to much \u2014but so much for the common market I guess… at least where wine\u2019s concerned. The only way is to bring a car so that one can drive it back \u2014so I guess I\u2019ll just look for some of these things in Amsterdam. After that it was back to Hostellerie du Clos, and making some notes, and then off to dinner…<\/p>\n

Back in the hotel now, and it\u2019s storming. A sudden rainstorm has blown up out of nowhere, and it\u2019s dark and thundering and pouring down rain!<\/p>\n

Later…<\/p>\n

OK, I have to say that dinner at our fancy hotel restaurant was a bit too big. I liked the less expensive menu with the kidneys more. Everything tonight was really tasty; it was just too much, too many courses of very rich food. We had an amuse bouche of cold cantaloupe soup \u2014delicious. then we had a salad with foie gras and girolles mushrooms. This was a replacement for the morell mushrooms stuffed with foie gras \u2014which Logan was dying to have \u2014but which for some reason wasn\u2019t available. Then I had a little soup of crayfish tails and Logan had a morrel soup with green asparagus. then we had \u201cline caught\u201d bar, pan fried. Then we had a medallion of lamb. Then we had a cheese assortment. Then we had little fried pastries filled with rhubarb and accompanied with strawberries. Then we had our infusion maison, and the little cookie things. So you can see \u2014it was a groaning amount of food. We drank another chablis (1998) of course, and an Irancy red Bourgonge (2000, a more robust year for this very light red) with the lamb. It stopped raining so we could have a walk after dinner, but it wasn\u2019t enough. I feel like I\u2019m going to have to work at losing some weight when I get back to Amsterdam.<\/p>\n

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5 June 2002 Aboard the TGV to Paris<\/p>\n

A long, sort of exhausting day, the return to Paris. It lacks the excitement of the outbound journey, and perhaps it was a mistake to book the return in the afternoon; there\u2019s something good about getting the travel over with early in the day. But then it took us an hour and a half to drive from Chablis back to Dijon \u2014even using the autoroute, it\u2019s a longer trip than I thought. Then getting the gas, and finding the train station. So around 12:30 we set off for a quick tour of the town. It\u2019s sort of a large place \u2014bigger than any of the other cities we\u2019ve been to on this trip, and bigger than Tours for instance, and very grand seeming, with a huge baroque complex in the center housing government offices and a musee des Beaux Arts. This was the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, but much and often added to over the centuries. There are also a number of Churches: the Notre Dame, with a very funny gothic facade absolutely covered with protruding gargoyles; and a big gothic church with a very odd looking renaissance facade \u2014and inside a miraculous statue of the Virgin Mary from the twelfth century. (It is believed to have saved the city from siege by the Swedes in the 16th century and from destruction by the Germans in WWII.) And Dijon has a big shopping area, with a Galleries Lafayette and H&M, and a big old iron covered food market, which was unfortunately closed for the lunch hour when we were there. So that’s it \u2014we skipped a big lunch, as we\u2019ve been eating far too much, and just had a hot cheese\/onion\/ham sandwich which we took away from a bakery. It was very oniony. Now we\u2019re on the TGV \u2014this one seems to have originated in Lucerne, Switzerland \u2014and we\u2019re racing back through the Burgundian countryside (very pretty) towards Paris. There was a storm last night, and now remnants of it all day; lots of wind, but then some sun too; and then brief bits of rain. Apparently the weather in Chablis, especially, is very unstable, and they are prone to sudden storms rising up from nowhere.<\/p>\n

Specialties of Chablis\/ the l\u2019Yonne:<\/p>\n

Goug\u00e8res \u2014little cheese puffs, a snack with an aperitif<\/p>\n

Andouilletes \u2014tripe sausages<\/p>\n

Pain d\u2019 Epices \u2014gingerbread<\/p>\n

Jambon Morvan \u2014prosciutto like ham served in thick slices<\/p>\n

soft cows milk cheeses \u2014famously \u00c9poisses, a smelly, runny cheese; and chaources, a milder creamy cheese<\/p>\n

Cherries \u2014in springtime; asparagus in season<\/p>\n

Escargots \u2014from burgundy<\/p>\n

\u201cTerrior de l\u2019Yonne\u201d organization for regional products: butchers, bakers, and restaurants.<\/p>\n

Wines:<\/p>\n

Chablis \u2014very dry chardonney grown in a small appellation surrounding the town on limestone soil. On of France\u2019s best white wines, and the best of the Burgundy whites.<\/p>\n

Cremant de Bourgonge \u2014the best from Bailly near Chablis; this area is quite near the champagne region, and like many champagnes it is a sparkling wine made from Chardonnay grapes \u2014but much cheaper.<\/p>\n

Bourgonge Aligote \u2014a cheap white wine that, with the local creme de Cassis, is the basis for a proper kir.<\/p>\n

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5 June Later… Paris<\/p>\n

Our train arrived right on time at the Gare de Lyon and the bus trip to the hotel was super easy \u2014it\u2019s practically door to door service. It was nearly six by the time we got settled, and we were pretty hungry too. Logan decided he wanted to eat at Bofinger \u2014for a very typical last meal in Paris. He called them but they wouldn\u2019t take a reservation, but said if we got there by seven we could likely have a table. So we walked over to the Bastille and arrived at Bofinger a bit after seven. There were only a very few tables occupied at that hour of course, so it was no problem and we got a nice table on the ground floor. All was very pleasant until they seated these two very odd women at the table next to us. One was very loud, and despite a funny sort of accent, very American. She was ugly in the extreme, with unkempt hair, warty complexion, and some kind of hideous pink sleeveless hand-knit top. Her companion was none too attractive either, but at least very quiet in a mousey sort of way. Well the loud one was just complaining about everything \u2014they were eating there on some sort of voucher given by a tour company or something, anyway they weren\u2019t even paying for dinner, but nothing seemed to suite \u2014\u201cWe don\u2019t want any wine, we want coffee and tea \u2014this coffee\u2019s too strong! Sausages! who would eat sausages for dinner? Can we have extra vegetables? How about broccoli? Do you have broccoli? She wants a salad too… \u201d The waiters were so accommodating to all this, I was absolutely amazed; where the Parisians get their reputation for rudeness, I don\u2019t know. Anyway, at first it was impossible to ignore this woman, and Logan and I both inwardly groaned \u2014it stopped our conversation, and her voice just reverberated in the space between us. Apparently she was here to see the Louvre \u2014that was her mission \u2014and if she was forced to endure the city of Paris in order to do it, she was just going grit her teeth and soldier through it. Oh how I wanted to tell her to lighten up, have some wine, enjoy her free meal! Well, fortunately, the restaurant filled up quickly, the noise level rising to drown her out more-or-less, and their food came and she shut up \u2014occasionally \u2014to eat. And the ironic thing is they devoured the food \u2014every bite: the onion soups, the fish, the mashed potatoes, the artichokes, the side of greenbeans; the extra salad \u2014Logan said she commented constantly on how delicious it was, so go figure.<\/p>\n

I enjoyed my dinner as well, but then I expected I would! We had Lillet served with a little dish of green olives and tiny pretzels. Then I had my big platter of six oysters with a glass of Chablis, while Logan had foie gras (again!). Then Logan had a fish that was the daily special, and I had braised duck. We had a nice bottle of Burgundy (a Mercurey) with it. Then Logan had a coupe colonel and I had a chocolate tart. It was all quite good \u2014maybe it\u2019s a little pricey, now that with the Euro one is aware of the prices \u2014and it was great fun to watch the waiters dashing around, in and out of the kitchen, up and down the stairs, carrying trays piled with dishes and grand plateaus de fruit de mer. We stopped afterwards at the Petit Fer a Cheval for a drink \u2014it was full of fashion-modelly drunk rufuses inside \u2014but we sat outside so it was ok.<\/p>\n

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6 June 2002<\/p>\n

Logan left early in the morning \u2014before breakfast \u2014so I had breakfast alone in the hotel, then set off dashing all around Paris on my own. And I really did dash around. First I took the Metro out to the 16th, where I\u2019d never really been before, a sort of a well-to-do but non-touristy area, and walked several blocks to find the Foundation Le Corbousier \u2014housed in a double villa he built in the 1920\u2019s. One of the Villas is open to the public, and it is quite fabulous \u2014very cubist, very stylish, probably not so easy to live in; but it\u2019s on four levels with lots of windows, and interior spaces looking into other rooms and cool built-in bookshelves, and picture rails and light fixtures. I left there and walked all the way to the Trocodero \u2014just to see the neighborhood, which is very residential, very typically Parisian. At the Trocodero I stopped to take in the view of the Eiffel tower, and the view of all the tourists and school kids taking in the view. Then I walked another couple blocks to the Palais du Tokyo, where I made a second visit to the hipster contemporary art space. The Wolfgang Tilmans had just opened, and I wanted to see it. Actually it was impressive and beautifully installed \u2014this huge curving white space with a very high, sky lit ceiling; and the pictures \u2014huge, tiny and everything in between, tacked to the walls all over the place. And some of the pictures were very affecting, especially the snapshotty portraits. But so much of his work is so banal \u2014I know that the banality is sort of his stock in trade \u2014but really I think it\u2019s too much; and actually his newer work is more abstract \u2014big photogram things and such; they don\u2019t have much emotional appeal, but they do show some effort.<\/p>\n

By now I was quite hungry, so on a whim I dashed to the subway and went to the Palais Royale and to Willi\u2019s wine bar \u2014arriving about 2:15, just in time to have a nice lunch at the bar: Asparagus and broadbean soup with a glass of Riesling, and veal liver with a cote rotie; a refreshing dessert of fresh cherries and orange slices with a slab of hard bitter chocolate. Very tasty. After lunch I had a bit of a walk around the Palais Royale, then took the metro out to the eighth and walked around looking in shop windows. Finally got back to the hotel after six; Went to the laundromat down the street at seven so I could have some clean clothes. At ten, walked over to the Marais, and had some dim sum things at that little place by St. Paul. Then sat at a sidewalk table at the Open cafe and had a few beers. Checked out the Full-metal and the QG bar \u2014neither very busy, then checked out the Arene \u2014busier, but as dreadful as I remember it being (thought I\u2019d give it a second chance); and really expensive beer too.<\/p>\n

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7 June 2002<\/p>\n

More photography… Before lunch, the show at the photo museum at the Hotel Sully \u2014which after I paid my 5 Euros, I realized I had already seen \u2014last year at the Van Gogh Museum. It\u2019s this personal collection of American photographs from 1840-1940. It was interesting enough to see again though. And then, after Lunch, I went to the other photo museum in the Marais to see the much hyped Klien+Paris exhibit. Big and garish, and many funny juxtapositions; mostly crowd shots from the street, or group shots a society events. In between I walked out to the Place de l\u2019Aligre and had lunch at the Table l\u2019Aligre. I had the daily menu: a crab salad, a roasted codfish, and a creme brulee; it was all very tasty and included wine, and a cafe \u2014all for 20 euros. A good deal, especially when you consider that I had just spent that morning 10 euros for two cups of coffee and a piece of toast at the AOC cafe.<\/p>\n

It was a bit gloomy all day in Paris, but now that I\u2019ve come back to the hotel to rest after a day of dashing around, it\u2019s cleared up and become quite sunny. 8 pm and it\u2019s very sunny and bright. I\u2019d take this computer to a cafe to make my notes, but I haven\u2019t had it plugged in and the battery is not charged.<\/p>\n

Later…<\/p>\n

I had a lie down in the early evening, then went out for a walk at dusk to take some photos and have a snack. I was going to stop at the Deux Palais, but it was closing, so I went to the Panis and had a croque on country bread.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

8 June 2002<\/p>\n

Out today pretending to shop. Actually I bought a summer shirt and some boxer shorts at this cheap, stylish store from Spain called Celio. Then it was just browsing around the St. Germain des Pres and San Sulpice. Then I happened by a little movie theater where they were showing the Larry Clark film \u201cBully\u201d, so I decided to go see it. It was really good, I thought. Then over to the Marais for a bit more non-shopping \u2014I tried in vain to find this one men\u2019s clothing store that I had seen earlier in the week. Then on my way back to the hotel, I stopped at Notre Dame and caught a bit of the Saturday evening service. Lots of singing, and very nice to experience the church in use. I hadn\u2019t a big lunch on Saturday, so I went out to dinner at Polidor. It was fun \u2014because of the people \u2014but it is not as cheap as I remember it. (dinner cost me as much as lunch at Willi\u2019s.) I had a lentil soup (rather dull) and the pintade with cabbage, which was quite good, and a huge tarte tatin with creme freche. Sat with a girl from London and her two French friends; they were nice.<\/p>\n

Dithered about where to go for a drink that night \u2014Keller or Docks or Transfert. Decide on Transfert, but it was a mistake \u2014it\u2019s the tiniest bar in Paris, and was empty as well. So after taking the metro there (it\u2019s at the far end of the Louvre) I had to walk back to the Marais, and just went to the Full Metal, and actually didn\u2019t stay out too late.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

9 June 2002 Aboard the Thalys to Amsterdam<\/p>\n

Very tired today \u2014too little sleeping the last three nights \u2014so most of the trip back I\u2019ve just been listening to music and staring out the window at the landscape. Some really beautiful cloud formations as we sped through Northern France. Holland is predictably gray.<\/p>\n

I had an early lunch before I left Paris \u2014a steak tartare at the Terminus Nord. It is yet another Flo group brasserie, but anyway that does assure that the food is of a high calibre. I was torn between steak tartare and oysters \u2014I only had time for one course. Had the tartare and a half bottle of Cotes du Rhone. Anyway it is directly across the street from the station, so it is very convenient.<\/p>\n

Now I have my article to write, but it won\u2019t be done on the train. I finally get out the computer, and we\u2019re racing into Schipol already \u2014so we\u2019ll be in Amsterdam in 15 minutes.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

One of my many wine and food journeys through the French countryside, this time the Burgundy region, accompanied (as often) by Michael Logan. This trip produced the Bourgogne slideshow photographs and the short food and wine article for Out & About. What follows is a rather detailed account of the trip\u2026 25 May 2002 Aboard … <\/p>\n

Continue reading “Paris, Beaune, Chablis – Spring 2002”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4,19],"tags":[44,64,92,93,136,162,163,174,219,229],"class_list":["post-40","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-clay-doyle","category-traveljournal","tag-beaune","tag-chablis","tag-food","tag-france","tag-mary-magdelene","tag-out-about","tag-paris","tag-relics","tag-vezelay","tag-wine"],"yoast_head":"\nParis, Beaune, Chablis - Spring 2002 - Anywhere But Here<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sunsetdrivestudio.com\/travel\/?p=40\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Paris, Beaune, Chablis - Spring 2002 - Anywhere But Here\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"One of my many wine and food journeys through the French countryside, this time the Burgundy region, accompanied (as often) by Michael Logan. 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