Clay Doyle moved from Los Angeles to Amsterdam in 1998, intending to stay a year. He is still there. Here are some of the reasons why..
A is for Ambassade
The worst thing about living in Amsterdam is that I have no longer have a reason to stay at the Ambassade—one of my favorite small hotels anywhere. It’s made up of a row of 17th century canal houses and fairly oozes with charm. If the Ambassade is booked, try one of the many other small canal house hotels that dot the city center–a more romantic choice than the ubiquitous chains.
You just have to ride a bicycle—it’s by far the quickest, easiest way around the city. It may look intimidating at first, but once on a bike you have the advantage as bicycles have the right-of-way. Rent one from Frederic Rent-a-Bike—their bikes don’t have any annoying logos that label you as a tourist.
C is for Canal
It’s all about the canals—they are the city’s greatest monument. Canals embody the history, planning, and character of Amsterdam—and they are beautiful. Rent a motorboat and see the city from the water; a cheesy rondvaart tour can be fun too, but choose a boat with an open-air deck.
D is for Darkrooms
Admit it, you want a little tryst with a local on your holiday, and what darkrooms lack in romance, they make up in efficiency. The Eagle has the nicest space, and the Web is the friendliest, but there are plenty to explore. Make sure you buy a drink upon entering a bar with a darkroom though–it’s considered the price of admission.
E is for English
A foreign country where everyone speaks English–It’s almost as if it were a holiday spot designed for Americans. And we’re not talking basics here–your new Dutch acquaintances will eagerly engage you in discussions of politics, culture, and travel. And they are far easier to understand than the English!
F is for Film Museum
Catch a great film in one of the three small, comfortable screening rooms at the Nederlands Film Museum. Every day brings something different—from American classics to French new wave to communist-era East European musicals. Many programs are in English. Located in the Vondelpark, the museum has a lively café as well.
G is for Gay Capital of Europe
Paris has more men, London more clubs, and Berlin has more sex, so why is Amsterdam Europe’s gay capitol? Perhaps it is the lack of ghettoization—you’ll find plenty of gays anywhere you go. And the compact city center makes bar-and-club hopping effortless—nothing is more than a 15 minute stroll away.
H is for homomonument (and gay rights)
The netherlands was the first country to erect a monument to gay victims of the holocaust and homosexual oppression. I like the monument, but I like even more The Netherlands commitment to respect and equal rights for gays, including most recently, full marriage rights for same-sex couples.
I is for Itinerary
The charm of Amsterdam is that there’s enough in the way of culture to keep you busy, but not so many sights that you feel compelled to run from place to place all day long. The Van Gogh museum and Rijksmuseum are must-see destinations; the Stadelijk (modern art) and the Amsterdam Historical Museum often have interesting temporary shows. Check out the Royal Palace and the several canal house museums–the Van Loon, the Willetholthuysen and the Amstelkring. Go to the Anne Frank house late in the day to miss the crowds. Feeling energetic? Climb to the top of the Westertoren for a superb view of the city.
J is for De Jaren
De Jaren is everybody’s favorite grand café and why not—the terrace on the Amstel River is one of the prettiest spots in town. The tomato soup is fantastic, and though the service can be chaotic, the waiters are cute. Second best canal side cafe: Spanjer and van Twist.
K is for Keukenhof
It’s not hip or trendy, but what could be more Dutch than tulips, and the Keukenhof is THE place to see them. It is one of the most beautiful gardens anywhere. A short train ride from the city, the Keukenhof is open March through May only.
L is for the light in summer
The summer days are amazing. Daylight lasts late into the evening, ensuring plenty of time for exploring, strolling, and sitting in cafes. Then watch the sun set as you enjoy a magical late dinner outdoors. The canal side tables at the Belhamel are too romantic.
M is for marijuana (of course!)
Contrary to it’s well-publicized image as a drug mecca, there are probably more stoners in San Francisco than Amsterdam. But there’s something about getting high in a pleasant sidewalk café—it’s just so civilized. The Belmondo on the Nieuwmarkt, the Kandinsky and Dutch Flowers in the Negen Straatjes and the gay coffeeshop The Other Side are laid back and friendly choices. Best to avoid the tourist traps around central station and the Leidseplien.
N is for Negen Straatjes
This is my neighborhood, the “nine little streets” between the Singel and the Prinsengracht. This 17th century district is home to numerous interesting and unique shops and pleasant cafes. Treat yourself to a stylish wallet from designer Hester van Eigen, an erotic woodcut from local artist Eddy Varekamp or a new outfit from the gay boutique Nieuwe Kledding van de Keizer.
O is for Out all night
Dance with the circuit boys at Salvation or the revamped IT. Alternative boys flock to de Trut and locals love the COC and the Montmartre. Trendy boys pose at the Arc, the Soho and the Exit. Sleazy bars can be found on Warmoesstraat, and neighborhood places along the Amstel. Everyone seems to end up at the Cockring eventually and before you know it, it’s 5 am.
P is for the pace of life
New Yorkers may pride themselves on how busy they are, but Amsterdammers make time to enjoy life, and you should do the same—linger over a coffee, spend three hours at dinner, sit in the sun. Once the work day is over, the pace of life is leisurely and relaxed. Enjoy it—and don’t expect speedy service in shops or restaurants, it just doesn’t happen.
Q is for Queen’s Day
It’s Amsterdam’s most festive holiday—a 24 hour celebration in honor of the Queen’s birthday. The party starts the night of 29 April as revelers pack the bars (gay and straight) until the early morning hours. On Queensday, the 30th, the city becomes a giant flea market, a stage for myriad performances, and a citywide street party—cars, taxis and even trams are banned from the city center. The Vondelpark is devoted to children selling toys and performing; it’s charming and worth a morning visit. There are plenty of Gay parties too—gays throng the Westermarkt, the Amstel, and the Reguliersdwaarstraat, for performances, cruising, and of course, beer.
R is for Romance
Avoiding Amsterdam because you aren’t interested in a sex holiday? You’ve got the man of your dreams? Amsterdam is a great place to be in love. Stroll hand in hand down romantic canals, have a long, delicious dinner at Borderwijk, paddle through the canals together in a canal bike, give your significant other a kiss on a bridge—no one will mind.
S is for Schipol
Bright and calm, well designed and well organized, Amsterdam’s Schipol Airport takes some of the pain out of flying in these trying times. Plus, the a train station inside the airport makes getting to the center of town quick, effortless and cheap!
T is for Tourists
With a population of only 750,000 (even if well over ten percent are gay) visitors to the city make up a sizable portion of those out on the town, providing an interesting, international mix. Tourists are vital to the gay scene in Amsterdam, so do your part and visit!
U is for Utrechtsedwarstafel
This is one of my favorite restaurants for a splurge–owners Hans and Igor always dazzle my guests with some fabulous new creation. It’s one of a number of small uniquely Dutch restaurants where chef decides what you will eat, based on the availability of the market. More moderately priced versions of this concept can be enjoyed at my other favorites Balthazar’s Keuken and Helder.
What’s not to love? This beautiful and expansive city park is also Amsterdam’s favorite people watching spot. Rent some rollerblades or have a drink at the 30’s moderne Blauw Teehuis, or join the shirtless gayboys for an afternoon of sun on the lawn at the rose garden.
W is for the Weather
Nobody comes to Amsterdam for the weather—but really it’s not that bad. Spring and Fall are beautiful, the Summer is never too hot, and Winter’s not as cold as new york. Yes it’s rainy—it’s the locals’ number one topic of complaint–but the sunny days are glorious.
X is for x-rated
Amsterdam’s century old red-light district is the Disneyland of sleaze. Gaudy but totally non-threatening, lingerie-clad ladies sit in the red-lit windows of cute 16th century houses on some of the city’s oldest canals. The real show is watching the crowds of stoned and gawking tourists; grab a seat in in the window of the popular gay bar Casa Maria for a ringside view.
IJ is for IJ
IJ (say eye) is a letter unique to the Dutch language. A brief review of Dutch pronunciation (all those funny double vowels are easier than they look) will help in reading street signs, and your slight effort will endear you to the locals. Plus, you’ll be able to order a delicious rijstafel at Kantjil en de Tijger.
Z is for Zeedijk
One of the oldest streets in Amsterdam, the Zeedijk is the city’s newest “gay” street. Sometimes very low-key, sometimes very festive, the bars here–the Cock and Feathers, the Barderij, and especially the Queenshead are worth checking out. Finally, the Nieuwmarkt square, at the southern end of the Zeedijk, is a favorite for its outdoor cafes.
Article by Clay Doyle,
Photos by Clay Doyle and Michael Logan (except Queensday Photo by Patrik Noome)
{Published in Next Magazine, New York City, April 11, 2003}
The List
Favorite Hotels
Ambassade
Herengracht 341;
+31-20/626-2333;
fax +31-20/624-5321;
E-mail info@ambassade-hotel.nl;
Seven Bridges
Reguliersgracht 31
+31-20/623-1329
Cafes
Café Nielsen
Berenstraat 19;
+31-20/330-6006
Café De Jaren
Nieuwe Doelenstraat 20
+31-20/625-5771
Spanjer & Van Twist
Leliegracht 60
+31-20/639-0109
Le Soleil
Best place in town for Dutch pancakes!
Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 56
(31 20) 622-7147
Restaurants
De Belhamel
Brouwersgracht 60
+31-20/622-1095
Hemelse Modder
Gay owned, stylish, good food!
Oude Waal 9
+31-20/624-3203
Bordewijk
Noordermarkt 8;
+31-20/624-3899;
Utrechtsedwarstafel
Utrechtsedwarsstraat 107-109;
+31-20/625-4189
Helder
Taksteeg 7
+31 20 320 41 32
Fax +31 20 320 41 32
Balthazar’s keuken
Elandsgracht 108, Amsterdam
+31 20 420 21 14
Kantjil en de Tijger
Spuistraat 291/293
+31 20 620 09 94
Fax (020) 623 21 6
Drinks
ARC
Reguliersdwarsstraat 44
+31-20/689-7070)
April
Reguliersdwarsstraat 37
+31-20/625-9572
Soho
Reguliersdwarsstraat 36
+31-20/330-4400
Montmartre
Halvemaansteeg 17
+31-20/624-9216
Amstel Taveerne Amstel 54
+31-20/623-4254
Casa Maria
Warmoesstraat 60
+31-20/627-6848
DANCING
COC Friday Night Disco (
Rozenstraat 14
+31-20/623-4079
Fri 11pm-4am
de Trut
Bilderdijkstraat 165
+31-20/612-3524 S
Sun 11pm-4am, doors open at 11pm
Cockring
Warmoesstraat 96
+31-20/623-9604
IT
Amstelstraat 24
+31 20 489-7285
Sat 11am-6 am
DARKROOMS
The Web
From 4pm til Midnight!
Sint Jacobsteeg 6
+31-20/623-6758
The Eagle
From midnight to 4 am
Warmoesstraat 90
+31-20/627-8634
Smoking
The Other Side
Reguliersdwarsstraat 6
+31-20/625-5141;
Kandinsky
Rosmarijnsteeg 9
+31-20/624-7023;
And…
A Bigger Splash
The city’s gayest gym is also clean, well staffed and well equiped.
Looiersgracht 26-30;
+31-20/638-9703
day passes available
Thermos Day Sauna
For a different sort of work out!
Raamstraat 33
+31-20/623-9158
Eddy Varekamp
30 Hartenstraat
1016 CC Amsterdam
tel. 31 20 6.25.77.66
Open Saturdays 1-6pm
Frédéric Bike Rentals
Brouwersgracht 78
+31-20/624-5509
Friday, April 11, 2003